Looking for tips on refitting glazing to externally beaded uPVC Window

[Jimk]

working without the tape (at all or applied but still with backing paper on exposed side), dry fit the DG unit, use packers to position the unit squarely etc in the frame, watch sight lines (maybe someone inside can tell you if it's good or bad) . Note the final number & size of packers in each position, bottom l & r & sides. Remove dg unit. Glue/tape bottom & side packers together & glue/tape bottom ones into position on frame. Peel security tape, fit DG unit bottom first resting on bottom packers but not touching tape to frame yet! whilst using side packers at 90 degrees (so they stick out of the frame towards you) guiding the DG unit back into final position- fit packers after it's in... Extra hands help!

[Jimk]

Bueno

[jkn]

Hi All at last, I have had good success with a 'must get round to it' project... now seeking help with the next steps.

We have a uPVC Kitchen window which wouldn't open - I thought the rods had got jammed, which I have seen before. In order to 'jemmy' it open, I knew that it was best to remove the glazing, but was a bit nervous about doing this.

Anyway, prompted by the weather I finally got around to this yesterday, and the work went well. Because it is an externally beaded unit I had to cut the security foam, which was a bit of a faff. But removing the beading went OK, and after I deglazed the window I was able to lift and open the frame.

I now think that the rods were OK, but that the window had dropped slightly. Regardless, I have given it all a good clean and grease, and re- adjusted the rods. The glazing is now back in temporarily whilst I wait for replacement security foam, but the window is working better than it has ever done ;-).

I am now looking for tips on how to do a final refit when the tape arrives. I have two main questions but would be pleased to hear other tips:

1) how to deal with the stickiness of the security tape, giving me only one chance to fit. I have read a bit about using a solution of washing up liquid, to avoid initial grab. Is this the current way to approach things?

2) related really - heel and toe-ing when fitting with the tape. Would the panel suggest putting packing pieces in first, then putting the glazing in, or (say) put the glazing in, then slide it around to fit the packing pieces?

2a) more on heel and toeing. I've read that you just fit the glazing unit 'dry', then measure the gap, halve them and use that to decide what size packing pieces to use. In my 'dry fit', I started off with what was there originally, and then fitted the glazing, but then stressed the frame upwards a little and added a little more packing appropriately. This seems sensible to me - any comments?

Thanks for any hints/tips/comments

Jon N

[Andy Burns]

was the glass "packed" correctly before?

sorry, have only done internal glazed ones (thankfully).

I put bottom ones in first, then panel, then top/side diagonal packers, finally squeezed in an extra 1mm to make them tight if needed.

[T i m]

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I think when they did mine, they applied the tape to the glass, then pulled a little corner of the tape backing inwards on both ends of each length, offered the glass into the frame (with packing pieces taped in place) and then peeled the tape off, pushed the DG unit home and applied the bead.

Cheers, T i m

[jkn]

Hi T i m

Yes, an approach like that was something I was wondering about as an alternative. The w/up liquid approach sounds a bit risky, especially as a first-timer...

When you say 'with packing pieces taped in place' - do you mean to the window frame, or to the glass unit?

Thanks J^n

[T i m]

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I have use the washing up liquid approach for signs etc but never on double sided tape so I can't help you there.

In my case they were just tacked into the frame with small bits of tape (even at the bottom to stop them falling over when you are trying the wrangle the DG unit in place) and once the DG unit has been seated fully but loosely, you (they) peeled the tape from underneath itself and finally pressed the unit in place all round, followed by the glazing beads etc.

The key is to make sure the tape isn't already being pressed hard and you peel it back gently and the right angle (maybe 20 Deg off right back on itself) so it comes away nicely.

This only really works if the DS tape is 'fresh' and of good quality. If it's got old then the paper backing can become more fragile and so more chance of it tearing off rather than peeling back. You can always test some between two objects and even cut the foam again if you have to and start again.

That's why you set a tape at both ends of each leg as then you get two goes at each. ;-)

Even if a bit does go wrong, as long as it's not along the bottom (and probably even if it is) the DG unit isn't going to fall out or even be pulled out (or leak water or drafts as the foam will be still creating a seal) and there is normally a rubber seal on the external glazing beads. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[jkn]

Thanks Jim I had wondered about doing it like that. If I can do a couple of dry runs successfully, I might go with that approach.

J^n

[jkn]

update: well, I did something like Jim suggested, sticking some of the packers in place at right angles, and with tape, before offering the glazed unit up properly. I did a couple of dry runs and it mostly worked OK ... so then I took the cover tape off the foam.

Reasonably happy with the result ;-)

Thanks J^n