Lining an outbuilding

[Huge]

As work on the house tapers off, I'm considering improving my barn/workshop by lining it. At present, it's a steel frame with 2x4 timbers bolted to them and featherboard nailed to the outside. It doesn't keep the weather out very well and wouldn't keep out a determined 11 y/o (or their wheelchair); it's essentially a giant shed.

The first step is to improve the wiring/lighting, but I know what I'm going to do about that.

I was thinking of ... (and bear in mind all this has to be done from the inside);

- Fastening plastic sheeting inside the featherboard (I an *NOT* taking the featherboard off) to make it wind & wet resistant, probably with stainless steel staples into the sides of the 2x4s.

- Fastening s/h Kingspan or similar inside the 2x4s.

- Lining it with s/h OSB nailed onto the faces of the 2x4s. (Good excuse to buy an air nailer!) and then painting it white to help alleviate the stygian gloom (although better lighting should improve that).

So ... what have I forgotten/overlooked?

[Robin]

I wondered if the extra cost of breathable membrane rather than plastic sheeting would be justified to reduce the risk of rot etc.

[Huge]

Thank you! That's the kind of answer I'm looking for.

This kind of thing?

[Bill Taylor]

Make sure there's a ventilation gap between the FE and the plastic sheet. (Not saying you've missed it, just isn't clear in the description.)

I've just repaired (rebuilt) a couple of outbuildings; 2x4 frame, OSB on the outside, breather mambrane stapled (SS stpaples) to the OSB, battens (for ventilation) then feather edge boards. I'll put rockwool between the timber framework and OSB on the inside. Nearly as good as a 199-s timber frame house!

[Huge]

[21 lines snipped]

No, I missed it! Thank you.

:oD

[Bob Minchin]

Firstly you need to think where the water you are keeping out is going to go. Ok you are stopping it coming inside the shed but if all it does is run down behind the feather board and rot off the ends of your 4x2 you have a problem to bite you on the bum later. Might see you out before becoming an issue though?? I'd ease off the bottom couple of feather boards and re fix them splayed out a bit to give a drainage route for water to the outside.

On the inside you need a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation. OSB is tolerably good at this but there could be gaps etc and whilst the insulation is exposed, sheet polythene is cheap and reliable as a vapour barrier.

Mark the position of your vertical studs not only to aid fixing the OSB but it will allow you to fix french cleats to the walls to support any hanging cupboards.

Yes yes yes to white paint on the inside. it makes a huge improvement to the effectiveness of the lighting.

Surface fix electrics fitted after you have your french cleated cupboards on the wall will save frustration of trunking and conduit getting in the way of cupboard location.

600 x 600 LED panels are getting cheaper and better. Several friends have fitted them into new build workshops recently and now worth a look.

Good luck Bob

[Robin]

I think so - but my initial comment was pretty much the sum total of my [possible] knowledge on the matter :(

[Nightjar]

+1

[Huge]

[56 lines of really good stuff]

Thank you! All saved, ready for the project!!