Hi I got a house 60s and I have replaced my rose with a new one.
Now I have 2 black wire one was by its self and one was wound round 1
thicker black/very dark gray wire + 2 red live wires wound together
In the old rose the 2 red went to one wire the black and gray and one of the
black went to the other connection and the last black wire to an earth that
was not wired up to anything .
I connected the 2 reds to the brow live of the new rose the gray and black
to the neutral and the final black to the earth.
When I replaced the fuse the light was inverted and was on when it should be
off and when I turned it off it blew the fuse.
So I swapped them around made no difference.
Now I have placed the thicker gray in the neutral and the live in the live
and the 2 black in the earth and now the lamp stays on all the time.
I have tried every combination, and it is either inverted or always on or
You need a wiring diagram. I made exactly the same mistake when my
daughter pulled one of the wires out changing a bulb. The mistake I made
was not to credit that the wire could reach across to the switch.
Finally I realised I needed help and consulted the Collins DIY manual.
One of the roses detailed in there was what I had and then it was fixed.
Get yourself a relevant book before proceeding or call a sparky.
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
Many ceiling roses from a DIY store include a wiring diagram. There are
also DIY books on the subject. Studying the diagram should make it obvious
what you've done which is about the most common mistake people make when
first playing around with electricity.
It should act as a good lesson - to understand what you're doing before
doing it. Mains electricity isn't a toy.
*Procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW 12
And/or follow this advice (assuming you have a loop in ceiling rose).
1. Switch off the power.
2. Use some form of continuity tester to discover which cable goes to
3. Connect all the other blacks together via the N terminal.
4. Connect all the other reds together via the L terminal.
5. Connect all the green & Yellows together via the E (or funny earth
6. Take the black from the switch wire and either put some red sleeve
or a bit of red insulating tape on it and connect it to the remaining
7. Connect the fitting brown wire to the L terminal
8. Connect the fitting blue wire to the N terminal
9. Connect the fitting green & yellow (if present) to the E terminal.
Well this is what I sent to them via their feedback form:
There are several mistakes on your page about fuses at:
1. The standard is BS 1361 not BS 1362 (1362 is for plug top fuses).
2. For immersion heater you meant to say 15 or 20 amp, not 5 or 20
3. For radial circuits the allowable floor areas were increased some
years ago: 50m^2 for the 20A circuit and 75m^2 for the 30A circuit.
4. Many showers (over about 7kW) will require a 45A fuse, not 30A as
5. On this page about fuses, the picture shows a consumer unit with
I could have gone on: how often will a domestic immersion or storage heater
circuit require a 20A fuse?
Anyway, I received a very polite reply saying that they welcome the feedback
and will continue "to continuously improve" (sic.) the site. Oh, and could
I check all the wiring digrams for them! I think I'll send them a quotation
for doing that...
I hadn't come across it before. The pictures are nice, most of the
electrical information is OK, but, like everything on the Web, there are
traps for the unwary novice.
Wish I knew about that before. Daughter did same thing, ripped out old rose
to fit Ikea rubbish and realised she didn't know how to rewire. I had to
email her a sketch and then remotely diagnose what was what. She only had
neon screwdriver. It took 3 goes to get it right, no shorts or bangs on the
Rule no.1 - always note the connections before you remove the old
From what you have said, I would deduce the following:
The black wire wound round the dark grey wire is neutral.
The 2 red wires wound together are live.
The black wire on its own is switched live.
Use a test screwdriver/ multimeter to deduce which wire is going to
your wall switch and open the switch as well to see what type/colour
of flex is present there.
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