Leaded solder.

(just put < and > round the whole thing, that fixes any line-break issues)

Well, I don't need 100 at a time but I'll keep those in mind, thanks.

Reply to
Tim Streater
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I'm pretty sure this was infant mortality due to poor soldering. Once fixed, it lasted for years. I did have to replace the nicad that held up the tuning memory soom good while later.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

It needs the correct technique and tools. Just like any soldering job.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

It's not as difficult as some seem to think.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

That may be your attitude, but it's not mine.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

I've fixed many an Acorn monitor (Philips) where re-soldering the LOPT got it going again. And if it were just poor soldering, why always in the same place?

Philips incidentally seemed very good at poor soldering even with leaded solder. One of their early CD players (104?) was very prone.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I take it you don't do any normal hand soldering? If you did, you'd know why lead free is simply a waste of time.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Man at B&Q ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) wibbled on Tuesday 01 March 2011 10:47:

That's all very well, but what about the long term problems?

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'n my view, we are replacing a known good method (60/40) with one that already suggests it has issues - the fact that a number of industries are exempted from the lead-free solder ban suggests the suspicions to be well founded.

Reply to
Tim Watts

There's no suggest about it. Far too many tales around of problems for it to be an urban myth. And I proved it to myself early on.

I do quite a bit of soldering. Have a twin handset low voltage temperature controlled solder station with an additional vacuum de-solder handset, and a hot air re-flow/repair station.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

That's all I do, exclusively lead free solder, 50W temperature controled iron with plated bits and the right technique. Anyine who says it's difficult simply hasn't tried properly.

Anything alse is sub-contract.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

The area of the chassis forms a heat sink that prevents a good joint being formed.

Exactly the same problem can occur with modern reflow soldering if you don't ensure the temperature profile is correct across the whole board.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

Yow! So all you need is 1000 reels and you're sorted. (Only half a ton...)

Reply to
Martin Bonner

7:

processes, e.g.

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the kind of soldering the OP was asking about, it's just not an issue.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

I haven't seen anyone in this thread claim it to be an urban myth.

I haven't seen anyone iin this thread claim there are no issues.

What issues do exist are easily overcome for anyone doing a bit of soldering at home.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

Sounds even more like that 'bit of soldering at home' doesn't much matter. The fact is - as you've said - that all else being equal you require more skill to use lead free. And since many have difficulty in soldering properly anyway, why would anyone bother with a product which is inferior in every way, as well as more tricky to use?

It simply makes no sense at all.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I do plumbing and wiring soldering, freehand with both leaded and unleaded solder. Leaded is easier, but not by much.

Reply to
Skipweasel

Shhh! That's heresy around here :-)

Reply to
Man at B&Q

Don't put any fluoro tubes in the same order as that lot if you're buying from CPC ...

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Just don't even go there ...

I can't remember what it was a couple of years ago that turned the 4 CFL bulbs in the same box to shards of broken glass, but yes - BTDT

Reply to
geoff

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1133.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

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