We've got a dormer window with lead cheeks and the lead isn't particularly well fixed where the sides meet the front, as you can see:
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wind frequently hits the dormer head on (we live in a windy location) and makes the lead sheet flap about a bit. I want to fix it properly before it gets ripped/damaged during the autumn high winds.
My idea was simply to use some clear silicone inbetween the lead to make a seal, but I'm wondering if there is a proper or better way for fixing. I think the dormer frame is all wood, so maybe there are proper nails or fixings available I can use.
Think the correct way would be to lift the outer part, nail short strips of lead at right angles to the vertical, replace the outer then bend the strips round it to hold it in place.
Yes I think that would be better at least the open edge is then not quite so exposed to the elements. It would look better as well. As it is what happens to the rain that is blown into that gapping gap?
And shouldn't the tiles be on top of the lead and each having it's own soaker? What happens to rain blown under the lead? One assumes that the sarking is taken up the side of the dormer so that will catch it. Perhaps the sarking is also taken right up to the soffit so the rain going into the gapping gap does get anywhere it shouldn't either.
As for what to do. A simple fix would be small (just a few mm dia) bead of silicone an inch or so back from the edge between the two bits of lead and a batten to push them togther until the silicone has cured. Looking at the size of that gap I suspect there would be too much spring (even in lead) for the two bits to stay in close contact without assistance. If there is no sarking behind that vertical bit of lead a bead right from the top to just below the top of the soaker. If there is sarking thena few little blobs just to hold the edge down.
TBH I'd look at reversing the overlap then depending on how well that held in place a long bead or a few blobs of silicone as above.
I will look into overlapping the now under-lapped lead, depending on how neat the edge is that cannot be seen without pulling the outer lead away, which I have yet to do.
The rain that is blown in would probably just be wetting the plywood outer skin of the dormer wall. Not good.
The sarking is taken up the sides, about six inches. There were no soakers (crap builders didn't know/care that you need soakers with flat tiles), which was causing issues with the rain running on the felt below, which rotted at the bottom as it sagged, and water ended up running down the face of the garage wall. I put in soakers last year, which rectified the problem.
I will look into reversing the overlap as it seems the proper way to do it. Using some silicone and some lead dots as someone else pointed out, should do the job if reversing the overlap is not going to be possible. I'd rather do it proper, but sometimes other peoples bodges tie your hands somewhat.
The roof of our house was put on by unqualified idiots and signed off by an idiot of at least equal merit. Usual s**te Persimmon build. I'd rather the dormer was tiled rather than lead cheeked but you learn the hard way.
The tiles on the roof are either Redland Mini Stonewold, Marley Moderns, Theses tiles are singal lap tiles and DONT have soaker as there is no support under the tiles. The lead on top of the tiles is called an over lap flashing and is the correct way of flashing for this type of tile. There is a special silicone for joining lead over laps trade name "Leadmate"
And whats holding the soaker under the tiles from sagging. The lead flashing as been done in the correct manner , a minium of 6" or 150mm on top of the tile, not 6" or 150mm from the dormer side.
My last reading of Redland's blurb (last week) seemed to indicate that if soakers weren't appropriate then a hidden gutter was required.
I was particularly interested in StonewoldII at the time, so could be different, but I doubt it, as they are a similar profile.
I'm currently re-doing a failed verge (and other leaks due to bad workmanship) where the original builder failed to do /anything/ right. Wrong heights of brickwork, sarking felt /above/ the undercloak, tile gauge over the maximum, batten ends encased in bedding mix, clips missing or 'modified', (interlocking) tiles kicked up at verge, Last rafter inside cavity, lower than the brickwork with gap below battens, ordinary flooring nails used for fixing battens, no securing of eaves row of tiles etc..etc.....
The OP's builder looks as if he attended the same schoool of construction!
At least the remedial work so far has withstood the rain of late. Less so my lack of skin on my little finger following a kick back from the compulsory angle grinder used to lower the high spots on the brickwork. Someone should invent a left handed angle grinder!
Are you sure about that? The roof slopes slightly towards the dormer window, rain water was pissing onto the felt underneath as there were no soakers. I fitted soakers *on top* of the tiles after researching and the problem went away. I would say that indicated overlap flashing alone was insufficient for the types of tiles on my roof.
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have previously read that if the roof tiles are contoured, overlap flashing alone is ok. Flat tiles need soakers as wind can blow rainwater under the flashing and onto the felt below, which shouldn't happen. Seems logical to me.
Right, on single lap tiles the normal flashing is over lap lead flashing as in the photo. If the roof as a slope toward the dormer sides, then this is not going to stop the ingress of water on the type of tile on your roof, even if you use soakers. Are the soakers you put in on top of the tiles or fitted under the tiles? If under the tiles what holds them from sagging and water running in. The first class method to combat ingress of water on the type of tile in the photo is to use a secret gutter. Which is laid on top of the tile battens and at right angle to the side of the dormer side and the roof tiles laid on top of the secret gutter. If you try search for Humberside Danelaw on the web go to page 16 at the bottom of that page look for Continuous dry soaker HDL CST for tile H140. That=92s the best method.
replying to Tom Pickles, matt the lead wrote: the dormer has been done wrong, the front should be locked to the side with a welt with copper clips inside the welt. flashings on the tiles are fine. should have got a proper lead man to do the job and not a roofer
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