Kitchen Wiring - Help/Advice needed

inNeedofHelp · 2004-11-02T17:04:41+00:00

Hi There, Been reading up on quite a few threads on this forum, you all seemlike pretty helpful guys so thought I would post for some thoughts onmy current kitchen thinking.We are going to be re-doing the whole kitchen complety so re-wirerequired here, so I need to make sure we have planned it all correctly:-)SocketsWe are going to have all integrated appliances, and I have beenreading up on ways to wire up, FCU above worktops etc, we plan tosurface mount double sockets in the units adjacent to the appliancesto plug them into. This is to minimize all the switches we willotherwise have above units. The switches to the appliances are thenaccessible after moving a few tins of beans, so can be shut offimmediately in an emergency.Also part of this ring will be the sockets on the wall above worktops.So on this ring we will have :-4 dbl sockets for small appliances (ie toaster, kettle)in cupboard sockets for Fridge/Freezer, Freezer, Dishwasher, washingmachine, Gas hob (power for sparker), Oven as it rating is Max Rating:2.35 kWFuse Rating: 13 Amps(sparky told me can go on main ring and not need aseparate supply) and the extractor.Will this be acceptable or should it be split into 2 circuits?The boiler which is in kitchen has a separate radial circuit with onesocket at the end of it.The lighting is where I have my major headache, currently we have onevery large strip light, infact looks like 2 stuck together, you shouldsee how long it takes to come one after switching switch!! The planfor lighting is to1) replace strip light with a none offense light, perhaps a four wayspot light.2) Fluorescent tubes over wall cabinets for extra light3) Under counter fluorescent lighting4) Kitchen has a recess so we are lowering ceiling and puttingspotlights in there.Now it is a flat I live in, so gaining access to lighting is trickyand I think not a good idea to put any more on circuit, as all roomsare on one circuit ( 6 light fittings). Also the wiring is a bitpeculiar, not anything I...

Nov 02, 2004 21 Replies

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Andy Wade 21 years ago

A SP switched device would actually satisfy BS 7671, other than in a TT installation. Although it's normal practice to use DP switching for isolation, Reg. 460-01-04 states that the neutral does not need to be isolated in a TN-S or TN-C-S earthed installation fed from the public mains. The exception is the main switch of a domestic installation, which must always be DP [476-01-03]. See also page 34 of the OSG.

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inNeedofHelp 21 years ago

...

In light of the new January regs coming I suppose I should either

1) Get a move on and get it down for 1st Jan 2) take the "it was done prior 1st Jan" approach 3) Get electrics checked by relevant person, on completion.

What is it with UK and nannying us, and trying to take all our money at the same time!

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