Hi, In my kitchen (rewired a long time ago) there is a single ring, and a separate cooker radial. From the ring there is a switched spur which goes to a double socket under the countertop. This has a washing machine and dishwasher plugged in. The switch (I think) looks like a 20Amp part. Is this scenario acceptable?
Yes, it's quite "correct". You *might* argue that having both a washing machine and a dishwasher whose heating elements might run simultaneously is a little marginal but I doubt if the total load exceeds 20 amps as the dishwasher probably has only a 1kW heater (you might want to check this).
Is the switch one with a fuse in it or is it just a switch? If it's one with a fuse (13A) in it then the whole thing is even more "correct".
There's no need, it would just be "belt and braces". A twin socket on a spur on a ring main is quite OK and as allowed by the regulations. You can't add anything further to the spur though.
It's a bit of a grey area how Part P might apply to changing the switch to an FCU. I *think* your allowed to change/repair existing stuff but not dd new stuff in a kitchen. I'm sure someone else will know more exactly.
Kitchens ceased to be a special location in 2013 as part of the reforms called for by the Select Committee. So broadly speaking only a new circuit is notifiable.
You are allowed "to do" - but I can see no advantage in so doing.
(I would actually argue it would make it less fit for purpose).
An unfused spur can have one single or one double socket on the end of it. The nominal load is treated as 20A. In theory the socket could support 26A - but that is unlikely to occur as a long term load (neither appliance is likely yo be 13A - and both have shortish duty cycles and thermostatic controls). A 2.5mm^2 spur cable has an installed rating of
27A if clipped direct or embedded in masonry.
If you added a FCU at the spur point you would just make a nuisance fuse failure a possibility in a situation where the overload protection is already "designed in" by the rules governing spurs.
Which reminds me. They now sell plug in double induction hobs with a 13A plug. This seems a little marginal, as I'd have thought the current might be affected by the presence of the pan and its contents. Brian
I think with many induction hobs, you program it to let it know whether it's on a 13A/16A/20A/32A circuit and it modulates the power of the "rings" down to suit, if more than one is on at a time?
I remember the pre-1972 version that had a hot plate on top with the grill underneath at the top of the oven and a metal sheet you could slide in to reflect the heat up. There were two off/low/medium/high switches, one for the hotplate/grill and one for the oven. There was a thermometer built into the oven door. I think they were designed for a
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