I am in the process of fitting a complete new kitchen, and would like the
advice of the experts in this NG regarding some electrical regulations.
I have Googled about a bit and found some answers, but not all the info I
So here goes, four topics really.
1.. My understanding is that electrical outlet, 13A sockets, must be at
least 300mm from a sink. Is this correct?
2.. I want to put some mains halogen downlighters in a sloping ceiling
which will have insulation behind the plasterboard. Am I right in assuming
that I should create a box around the downlighters, say 100mm around the
light to keep the insulation away from the heat of the lights. The ceiling
is yet to be put up, so this would be easy, but the builder wants to plaster
the ceiling next week.
3.. Are there any regulations concerning placing junction boxes behind a
plastered ceiling? What are the regulations regarding accessibility to the
junction box? I have a lighting junction box connecting three external
lights to an external PIR.
4.. We are fitting a built under double oven and ceramic halogen hob. My
question here is how to wire this in. The Oven is rated at 5.18 kW (22A @
230V) and the hob at 5.4kW (23A @ 230V). Currently the MCB for the slot in
cooker is 32A. I will upgrade this to 45A. My idea is to run 10mm cable from
the MCB to the Cooker switch above the counter top, and then run two 6mm
cables from the cooker switch to cooker outlet plates below the counter top.
Is this OK?
Thanks for taking the time to read this, any advice / guidance gratefully
One 10 millimeter csa' (cross sectional area) cable is the best for total load
you're going to take. The
diversity rule that says, all the hob rings should not all be on at the same
time because of their
thermostat controls, and the fact that you're very unlikely to be running both
ovens at the same time, all
the time, would, I think, come into play here. So you should be able to use
just one 10mm cable fused at
45amps for this type of situation. But if you do want to run more than one
cable for this, then take into
consideration the cable grouping rules as well.
32A would be fine. There is no need to upgrade to 45A. I would keep the 32A
for increased short circuit protection, particularly if the cable runs are
You may have difficulty getting two lots of 6mm cable into the 45A DP
switch. If so, you can probably use 4mm cable for the runs to the cable
outlets. Although 4mm can't take the full 45A, I believe you are permitted
to take advantage of the fact that a heating device is unlikely to produce
an overload situation beyond the total sum of its heating elements as there
are no failure modes for a heating element to do this. 4mm (even 2.5mm)
cable is quite capable of carrying the 23A that each appliance needs.
This assumes that the runs between the DP switch and cooker outlets are
short (they should be, as the outlets must be close to the switch). If not,
you may have trouble using the MCB for short circuit and earth fault
protection, as the earth loop impedence may be too high.
Two points. My sister in law, having just spent 60 quid on new halogen
blsb inher kitchen, is now disappinted to find that 50% have gone
withong 4 months.
I am delighted that only two of my LV spots have gine in two years.
LV pays for itself quite quickly....AND the bulbs are cheaper too.
Secondly, unless the insulation is flammable don't worry about the
lights getting it hot. Plasterboard doesn't burn either. But DO worry
about nearby woodwork, and if you use LV, about overheating transformers.
If the insulatin is a wool type you can generally make a void by pushing
it back. If its celotex you need to cut around teh area - about a square
foot I'd say to mount the lights in a void if LV, a little less for mains.
Junction boxes are supposed to be accessible. strictly, you should use
crimps for a 'permanent' buried connection. In practice, if the building
inspector doesn't see it, and you feel confident in making a good
connection with a box and burying it - who cares?
Pass. Can't remember cable ratings, but it sounds fine to me...
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