Kickspace Heaters

At the last house the previous owner had removed the rad when doing a bodged kitchen refurb. When I refurbed it (properly) again I extended the microbore inside the plinths to put the kickspace heater under the unit housing the sink.

Absolute bliss! SWMBO an myself almost fought over doing the washing up to get warm tootsies. The fan was controlled by a regular electrical wall-stat next to the fan speed controller.

Depending on how often your boiler runs you can get away in the short term with just running the Kickspace it on its own internal stat. If the boiler runs for a long burn and the heater is oversized then the room might get too hot as the Kickspace temperature sensor is just sensing feed pipe temperature and not room temperature. If this happens you can always switch the fan off.

Mine runs with a Honeywell wireless stat to avoid hacking out the existing kitchen tiles. The fused spur is behind a kitchen unit and would take a good 30 mins to an hour to reach it. Switching off at the consumer unit takes all of 10 seconds. OK it might not satisfy the IEE Nazi's but it works :)

Bugger Part L and Prat P, a thermostat makes sense.

That's the reason for the wall stat. To turn the fan off to stop the tootsies get too warm. The hot water can continue to circulate through the matrix without pushing a great deal of heat into the kitchen.

The other benefit of the wall stat is you won't heat the kitchen as much when you get a heat gain from cooking.

You do need a wall stat, just simple mechanical works fine, Myson do those capable of switching 10A as one of my heaters is dual electric/CH type.

I have two kick space heaters in my kitchen and if someone sets the stat too high it get far too hot, so I would say yes a stat is definately required.

Remember to balance the system as well after fitting, as these heaters can certainly pump out a fair amount of heat at the expense of the rest of the house.

They also act as a by-pass too.