To find the length you can get there take two 2 1/2 metre ish battens, hold them together longwise in the middle and slide one up a bit, go up the stairs and into the loft adjust the combined length to find the max beam you can get up there. [george]
On Wednesday 18 September 2013 20:31 snipped-for-privacy@care2.com wrote in uk.d-i-y:
If he uses new timber it should not need to gap fill.
If water is expected then switch to EVA.
that's optimistic
its not waterproof. The structure needs to survive the odd roofing leak, adding a few rows of nailed noggings might do the job if you must use pva/eva. Epoxy isnt too expensive.
NT
If you try anything without calculating, load test it before use.
I'd be interested in the ref re box beams, I've got to do some work on those at some point.
Its only a 4m span, 2x C-16 plus ply sides I would have though would be overkill. Just 2x6 should be enough.
NT
The reason it semed attractive was the idea of taking everything up there as precut 8' lengths, given the difficulties of access and then assembling. The downside is the likelihood of it all goign belly up compare with a simpler solution.
The link is:
Depends which PVA ... most PVA's are now D3 rated which means it can take getting wet and drying out ... but not total immersion. If it doubt use a D4 adhesive.
Be advised that many people think PU is good as it has gap filling properties - it is exactly that gap filling that makes it weak .... on a tight fitting joint PU is fine ... however if it foams inside the joint then that means air bubbles, and strength is gone .... it does have advantage that it is D4 rated
thank you.
2.4m does sound better.NT
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