Jenolite?

The local independent shop had some t'other day, but the owner did say that he'd had a bit of a run around to locate any wholesalers that had stock.

Lee

IIRC they got taken over by Hammerite and that name is now on essentially the same products.

I've shifted to POR 15 Metal Ready of late. It's much nicer to use than Jenolite and it seems to work very well.

Ian

I don't think it had anything much in it other than orthophosphoric acid. Maybe a bit of wetting agent (washing up liquid?).

Maybe celluose too. Jenolite was also available as a gel.

Your best options are to avoid it as a low-end over-priced retail grade version of a common product. If you need a lot cheaply, find a hydroponics shop and just buy some conc. phosphoric acid. If you want the best performance, go to any engineering supplier and buy the equivalent product (Loctite do a good one). This is an opaque white liquid, as it also contains tannins.

Hi,

Have a look at 'Vactan' can be found on Ebay too.

I think it has some sort of acrylic resin in it as well as a rust converter, so it's self finishing/self priming to some extent.

cheers, Pete.

I have used Vactan and found it to be ideal and it appears to be better than Jenolite as I often found rust came through once it was washed down and painted. I paid £6.95 per 500ml for the Vactan and it is easily applied, dries quickly (< 10 mins on a dry and warm day to form a self priming skin that does not require washing off etc. I have used it on cars, had-rails and the other weekend in the inside of our old and well pitted cast iron gutters. I intend not to paint the inside of the gutters with a top coat just to see how the product holds up over time given we live right on the coast.

Gio

Sounds a bit like Kurust, and I've never got on well with that. Rusts back thriugh in next to no time.

This isn't just "Kurust" under another name is it? Never got on well with that stuff, very poor, rusted back through in next to no time.

If I give this stuff a try, what primer would you recommend to go with it, or would top coat be sufficient?

I've always used Jenolite to get rid of the rust, then Zinc182 primer to slow down its return. I assume Zinc182 primer wouldn't make much difference on this stuff as its already a curer and primer?

Kurust is something I have not tried for years, in fact it must have been back in 1982 or so with my old Fiat 127. No doubt it has changed a bit since then :-)

With Vactan the surface is left with a hard vinyl like finish. When it is initially painted on it is cream in colour after a brief period it starts to change to a light green colour where it is in contact with metal. It then changes to a dark brown / black colour as the chemical process takes place. When dry and it does dry quickly in favourable conditions the surface can be painted soon after. I tend to keep pouring small quantities from the main stock bottle into an old mug and apply from that so as not to contaminate the stock solution. When any drips dry on the sides of the pottery mug, with it not chemically bonding to the surface of steel you can peal the dried Vactan off the mug like a PVA skin. see

Gio