Insulating a shed.

I want to make working (?) in my shed during the coming winter more comfortable, so I thought about insulating it , what do you good folk recommend as being up to the job.

Reply to
johno
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What is the construction of the shed and can you afford to lose space with extra 'skins'? How comfortable and what costs are you prepared to pay?

Reply to
John Cartmell

Andy Hall did his very comprehensively. A quick Google should find the details.

I did it relatively on the cheap. I have (in order):

22mm external boarding (painted) 40mm Kingspan, foil backed Duct taped board joins 4mm plywood (in some areas) 9.5mm plasterboard

It is still cold bridged across the studwork. I would have used 12.5mm if I wasn't shifting it myself. The plywood is so I can mount light hooks easily. I had it lying about. The plasterboard is because I hate spiders. So far it has been extraordinarily successful. Barely a spider in there. It is also excellent for reflecting light, making it quite pleasant within.

Kingspan is cheapest from

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Given the limited stud depth, Celotex/Kingspan type insulation was the only practical. I had not the time, money or space to eliminate cold bridging by affixing further insulation over the studs/rafters. Wood cold bridging is never as bad as masonry, anyway.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Thanks for the ref to Andy Hall, had a quick look and it helps a bit. I am not looking at using it as an office, so it does not need to be hi tech. I can lose a little space vertically, but not much, walls are no problem. I had thought of Rockwool and clad with mdf or similar, will have a look at the cost of cladding in comparison. Shed is fairly new T&G, uprights are 40mm, roof beams are 50mm. The main thing is it is empty and if I can get it done before she gets back from her holidays and fill it with my stuff, then jobs a good un!!!

Reply to
johno

Get a few sheets of Jablite and a tin of Sealofoam (apply sparingly). When it's draughtproof apply 6mm WBP ply to the inside.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

It's up to you. Kingspan/Celotex have twice the insulative capacity of polystyrene (Jablite). Rockwool is a complete pain in wall construction, as it sags.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Ask in uk.rec.sheds. (TeeHee)

Reply to
soup

I don't know what half the proprietary names that are given here are, but I just used 2 inch expanded polystyrene sheets, and it made a major amount of difference - not only with warmth but also light relection.

One area you will have to address is that the joinery round shed doors is usually basic and is a pain to draught proof - that's probably where the greatest heat loss will come from after adding insulation.

In the end what you do does depend on what you are going to use the shed for - whether you can get some heating into it and how many layers of jumpers you want to put on.

Rob

Reply to
robkgraham

These, often referred to by a common trade name "Jablite" are OK, but have much less insulation value than Celotex/Kingspan (polyisocyanurate, IIRC).

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

That's what "Jablite" is (you can get different thicknesses)....

Reply to
Chris Bacon

If you don't end up with light coloured surface , then painting it white is worthwhile, made big difference to our shed

Reply to
chris French

I used 2" jabfloor sheets (built it before I knew where to get PIR foam cheaply!). With 3/4" shiplap outside, 1" air gap, and 1/2" ply inside it actually works very well. I have a 2.2kW fan heater in there that I rarely if ever need to run above its lowest 800W setting. I added thermostat so I can leave it on frost free to protect the rustable kit in there. Piccies here:

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Reply to
John Rumm

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