Inserting a new section into an underground 110mm soil pipe.

I need to insert a new section into an existing underground soil pipe. OK, so I'll cut a pice out of the old section and cut a new length of pipe the same length, to replace it. Then I have two double-socket couplers to make the joints. The question is, how to install the couplers. Do I slide each one onto the new section and then slide them over the joins - or should I unclip the rings conataining the neoprene seals, then slide the rest of the coupler in place, and then slide the rings, complete with seals into place and tap them home, on the coupler? The latter option should be a lot easier, and I dare say that's how one is supposed to do it. Am I correct?

The couplers I am ising are a few years old and have been used before. I have cleand them up. One of the couplers is orange-brown in colour. The other is grey. The seal housing rings on the orange-brown one pried off dead easily. However the ones on the grey coupler are not coming aff easily. Different design, obviously. I'm wondering if they are even removable at all. I don't want to break anything trying to force them off. Any advice?

What sort of lubricant can I use when putting everything together? Is washing up liquid sutable? I also have some silicone grease in an aerosol can.

Many thanks,

Al

Reply to
AL_n
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IME, double socket couplers usually have a stop half way through, which means you cannot slide them fully over a pipe. As a result, you have to be able to move one of the existing sections of pipe to get the new bit in. If that is not possible, you need 4 x flanged connectors. Fit those to all the pipe ends and you can slide the new bit in sideways, before clamping them together.

Alternatively, blowing my own trumpet, I can supply neoprene sleeves that can slide over the pipe and are secured with Jubilee clips. However, they are only rated to 0.5 bar. Stainless steel also does not do well in wet areas without access to air. So, I would not recommend it in heavy clay, but it should work in a free-draining sandy soil.

The kit is part number FS400-108 on this page:

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I always use washing up liquid.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
Nightjar

Silicone grease is good when you want a permanently moveable joint such as an expansion joint in guttering.

Soapy water is good when you want a temporarily movable joint for assembly purposes only, after which the soap will wash away and the joint will lock more solidly.

Rubber seals in soil pipework normally come under the second catagory.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Nightjar wrote in news:9IqdnWt5TeQWdR snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Thanks for the suggestions, but mine don't have the stop.

Al

Reply to
AL_n

I have done this. I needed to add a "T" piece for a new surface water drain. I used two standard straight couplers and ground off the stop in the centre so that I could slide them right up the existing pipe then back onto the new section. I used a permanent marker to mark the spot on both old and new pipes where the connecter should end up. It was not an easy job as even with plenty of soapy water as lubrication the couplers were very difficult to slide back. I managed by using a block of wood and lump hammer.

Mike

Reply to
MuddyMike

i did this (above ground) using couplers that were made for the purpose with no ridge in the middle. i found it very hard to slide them until I bought some silicone grease. After that they slid just by hand (no hamemring).

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

The "proper" way is with a pair of slip couplings - these are designed to slide right up the pipe. So you can get the new bit in, and then slide the couplings into place. For longer sections, you can probably use one normal coupling and one slip.

The slip jobbies are often rubber with jubilee clips on each end...

Silicone is probably safest near to rubber (assuming its real rubber - which it probably is not).

Reply to
John Rumm

'sexual' lubricant is good, because it is ultimately water soluble..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

The Natural Philosopher wrote in news:j5v91f$6o3$ snipped-for-privacy@news.albasani.net:

What!!!! You spit on it?

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Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

"AL_n" wrote in news:Xns9F6E5B2FA5CD6zzzzzz@130.133.4.11:

Use plenty of lubricant but don't dismantle the seals as it can be a pig of a job to clip these in when pipe inserted.

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Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

You use "slip couplings". These are like the normal ones onlythere is no little stop nib inside the coupling. You slide it right on to one pipe &then slide it back onto then new section. Mark with pencil so you knpw when it's centred up. You can convert a normal coupling to slip coupling by removing the nib inside.

Reply to
harryagain

"MuddyMike" wrote in news:jqudnZ5wt snipped-for-privacy@brightview.com:

Done the job now. It was easy. What made it easy was I unclipped the seal housings. Then the main body of the coupler can be slid easily into position, after which the seals can be slid into place and clipped back on with the aid of a small hammer or suchlike...

Al

Reply to
AL_n

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

On 28/09/2011 14:43, John Rumm wrote: ...

It is likely to be EPDM.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
Nightjar

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Reply to
Hugo Nebula

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