Inner tube repairs - is it just me ?

Probably not much comfort, but I have always had reasonable success with pretty much that method.

That's pretty well what I've always done and I can't say I've ever had a follow up problem with them? That said, I think I've generally used the pre-made patches (where you peel a backing and top protector off) so that may be a different solution to making your own patch?

How long are you (typically) leaving the repair before full re-inflation?

Cheers, T i m

Used both with equal lack of success.

The last one about 10 minutes. The guy in the shop was confident.

If they had a tube, I would have bought that, but it's hens teeth time.

(Have 2 winging their way to me as I type, now).

I appreciate in times gone by, when a tube was maybe £2 and a weeks wages were £30.

But the tubes I just ordered are £4.50 each including VAT. Most places charge £5 minimum labour anyway.

Probably not just you, but I have had relatively few problems in 55 years. It's often difficult to recover an old tube that has been flat for a while, though (wheelbarrows, etc).

One of my rules was never to leave a patched tube in a motorcycle front wheel (after I had one fail on a bike that I was recovering for someone). I only ever had rear punctures on my own bikes in my thirteen years riding (a bit less than one a year). But I normally carried a spare (used) tube for speed and convenience.

I have had very, very few bike patches fail?

The only different step I do is after I apply the patch I rub it with the blunt end of a pen until the backing layer, foil or plasticy paper, cracks. I then pull the backing paper off from the centre of the patch.

I used to do 5 or 6 a year but bike tyres have improved. I think I've only done one this year.

I pump my bike tyres up to 120+ psi. They go down to 80 in a couple of weeks but that is just general leakage not a bad patch.

What that is daylight robbery. I'd have thought for what they charge for chairs that they would be unpuncturable, ie filled with gell.

I know some of the little buggies are like that.

I don't know about modern tubes, but my late father hardly ever had to buy a new tube as repairs just worked, indeed it was often the strongest part of the tube thereafter. Has the glue or the material the tube or patches changed over the years for some environmental reason?

Brian

The method my dad taught me was much the same except he would wipe the roughened tube with petrol or lighter fluid before applying solution. We never had a failure.

The tyres on SWMBO wheelchair are 1" - very narrow. It's a *real* struggle to get them to 140 ... I use a track pump but I have to bounce up and down to get the last 20.

They're down to about 80 every fortnight.

Solid tyres are available, but (to quote SWMBO) "they're s*it."

Hmmm?

Ok, well, not as long as I might choose but needs must etc.

;-)

And why we run Punctureseal seal in all our cars, motorbikes and trailers and a lighter 'slime' in all our cycles and cycle trailers (along with running puncture resistant tyres etc). Whilst they may make the wheel heavier and require more effort (both solutions), we aren't ever in competition, appreciate the added exercise and would rather that than have to stop for or suffer from the consequences of a puncture (like loss of control etc).

We would also already generally carry a spare tube for anything tubed, and with the advent of folding cycle tyres, even a spare tyre (between

Cheers, T i m

I've always had good success with that method. The only time it's gone wrong is if there was something left in the tyre (and glass can be very hard to spot).

I've also had good results with the self-adhesive patches that don't need rubber solution.

Have you cosidered using Slime?

For bike bits I tend tom use

Admittedly, I'm only pumping bike tyres to 60-70psi.

You might be pumping it up to full pressure too soon after assembling it (or perhaps not getting the rubber grease free in the first place). Putting the patch on too soon might also result in a weaker bond.

It has always worked for me except when the tire has been badly damaged.

I've never repaired car inner tubes but bicycle inner tubes tubes have never been an issue. (Tubless tyres were just about universal when I started driving.)

The only comment I would make is you posted 'cut a patch' - what are you using for patches? I've always used 'proper' patches which have foil on one side and paper on the other. From memory (I've not repaired a tube in some years) the foil is removed first, exposing the side which you press against the glue, then you remove the paper having pressed the patch down firmly.

Certainly worth using slime or similar in a wheelchair, I would have thought. I have a spare bottle of Honda tyre stuff, I let the main agents do the first service on my s/h Jazz and they insisted on replacing it "since it goes out of date". This 6 year old stuff worked fine on a friend's wheelbarrow the other day.

partially inflate

By "partially inflate" I mean pump up the tube so it's just barely holding a ring shape. Makes it easier to handle, and the patch isn't stretched once the tube is installed. Has always worked, with the exception of repairs around the valve stem.

Puncture-resistant tires with Kevlar, thick latex foam protection etc. have made punctures rare.

Thomas Prufer

Bill

TX both for the nudge on that. Might have a squirt ...

The repaired tube was fitted with the brand new tyre I keep for such eventualities (having been bitten with a blow out and no stockists before).

One of the reasons I am SO PISSED OFF. I really couldn't have done more except take a brand new tube out of a box to ensure it's not f***ed.

Obviously the diameter of the track pump barrel/piston determines the force needed to get up to to 140 psi.

I use a Joe Blow Sport 2 pump which I just tested up to 140 psi. It did require a bit of force at the end but only for the final few strokes. I'm 77kg.

It is possible you could get a Track Pump with a narrower barrel which you might find easier.

I'm surprised you need 140 psi. On a 25mm/622mm wheeled bike 80 psi is generally good enough for a reasonably low rolling resistance and to protect against pinch flats. I only do 120 psi so I don't have to pump up so often.

Yep, I think she is right, that's why they aren't used on bikes.