Increasing the width of rebate in a door frame

I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.

Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?

I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an angle grinder! ) might be appropriate - but what would be the best way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?

TIA.

Reply to
Roger Mills
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Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.

NT

Reply to
Tabby

Roger,

Replying through Tabby as I have killfiled all Google and Gmail posts to reduce spam.

How much extra is the door thickness?

Personally, I prefer (and have done many) to use a hand rebate plane on the bulk of the rebate removal, and then use a nosing plane and/or sharp paring chisel to clean out one the corners.

Can be a bit time consuming and arm-aching, but you have less chance of doing damage to the frame than using an electric router - assuming that you even have the space to wield one (unlikely and possibly a little dangerous in my opinion).

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Tabby,

The rebate on a front door is usually machined on and *not* formed with a 'planted' door stop.

Cash

Reply to
Cash

What timber strip? most door frames are a solid rebated piece of timber.

Reply to
F Murtz

Not all frames are made thus. This house has the slamming strip included in the main baulk. Dammit. Makes it a bastard if you've got a slightly warped door.

Reply to
Skipweasel

Assuming the door stops are actually rebated into the frame (rather than being loose strips fixed on after), I would go for a small trim router, side fence, and a straight (fluted or possibly downcut spiral) cutter. Use that as close into the corners as you can get, and then tidy up with hand tools at the corners...

Depends on how much needs taking off... chisel possibly, or a plane iron. or Fein Multimaster wood raspyo get you close to a line and then chisel / sand level.

Reply to
John Rumm

There ain't a strip! The rebate is cut into the frame - with the non-door side being thicker than the door side.

Reply to
Roger Mills

I'm not *posting* via gmail - I simply use a throw-away gmail account in case anyone wants to reply directly.

Probably 3-4 mm.

Makes sense. Thanks.

Reply to
Roger Mills

A router is by far the best way but make sure you set the depth and the thi ckness adjustment first and also know which way the router turns, I normall y go upward as it won't jump out of your hands unexpectedly the finish the rest with a sharp chisel using a long spirit level to get the line correct, the problem is most joiners will say that you must replace the frame etc a nd cost you loads more but if you have a solid frame then a good joiner wil l be able to work around it but it will take some time to archive it especi al lift our having new hinges lock pack and purco fitted allow 2 hours per door to be sure and plenty of cups of tea or coffee.

Reply to
Karlbrown1974

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