I have a small air compressor and one of the fittings to the air tank has sheared off. You can see it here:
Thans.
Kal Ico snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Stud Extractor
+1
Is that some sort of goo providing an additional seal? Is it hard or soft? Either way, I think I would attack it gently with a wood-working chisel to try to chip or prise as much away from the interface as possible, as it will be contributing to the removal torque. Ideally I'd try to make the thread interface visible, and soak it with some sort of penetrating oil. The very last thing you want to do is apply so much torque that you damage the boss or the threads. Remember that a stud extractor tends to expand the male part, making it tighter.
Sadly stud extractors don't come with a maximum torque setting and I have heard so many stories in broken extractors. In short unless the item comes out with a minimal torque I wouldn't push my luck.
If the above fails or you don't have an extractor, being brass I would drill this out, there's even a nice pilot hole for you.
With a correctly sized drill I've generally been able to pick the bits of thread out, even in steel and then run a tap to clear the thread.
Most tanks have a drain, so you may be able to remove the fragments that fall into the tank through that?
I have used a punch or something similar to wind out a bolt. It may loosen the thread sufficiently for a stud extractor to work.
Would it benefit from local heating prior to further rotational force?
There may have been thread sealant used which can sometimes be softened by heat.
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It's brass which will solder well. Clean up the inside as best you can and solder a suitable brass thing in - maybe a brass bolt or just some brass rod. Use flux and a small blowtorch. There should be plenty of area to make a strong enough joint, and the heat may well help too.
"Rod Speed" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:i83spiFg3c9U1 @mid.individual.net:
An extractor will not damage the thread - you would put the extractor into the hole and wind out the broken stub.
Clive Arthur snipped-for-privacy@nowaytoday.co.uk> wrote in news:rvj5fg$gbt$1@dont- email.me:
I would suggest it will not be very tight as their is no shoulder for it to have been tighted onto.
The fact that it sheared off suggests to me that it might be tight! As a stud extractor will try to expand the stub during removal it might not be the best tool. I?d try one first probably but I suspect it?ll need careful drilling and then cleaning up the threads with a tap.
Tim
Tim+ snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.individual.net:
Depends - was it a tapered thread - or did the fitting have a shoulder?
A good method for a nut or bolt head, might be worth a try if there is enough metal to get at. You need the right sort of punch. Mine isn't round, it has four tapering "sides" like a very elongated pyramid, and then at the end a "flat"at an angle of about 30 degrees to the axis, oriented diagonally so that there is one "point" that digs in and provides the driving force without tending to slip laterally.
Well it does depend on the "goo", I was thinking of the soft stuff used for sealing automotive seams before painting, this might well be softened by hydrocarbons.
Agreed. That will work on "hard" or "soft" sealants.
Unlikely given that it looks like a nut welded to the air reservoir.
Tim
Softened maybe.
I have had the experience of heating up threaded parts where I carbonises the grease/organic matter between the threads. The movement I initially had disappeared and have since wondered if there was some reaction incorporating the carbon into the steel parts.
Where you have dissimilar metals there is always the thought that differential expansion can help. Brass has a thermal expansion coefficient nominally twice that of steel.
After tentative easing with a stud extractor I would drill this out very carefully. Worst case scenario if the threads are seriously damaged is a helicoil.
Do we know if it was broken off by an accidental sideways force, in which case it might not be particularly tight apart from thread sealant? If it sheared off trying to undo it a stud extractor is likely likely to damage it by making it tighter and distorted, or shear of the whole ad hoc boss.
If it was sideways force I would describe that as ?snapped off?. To me, ?sheared off? suggests breakage during attempted rotation.
Well I think we?re agreeing.
Tim
/The bit that needs removing is screwed into that.
And the brass bit seems to be inside the welded steel boss, so maybe rapid cooling first to shrink the broken bit, and then try the stud extractor. A CO2 fire extinguisher might be able to provide some rapid cooling, since that seems to be how rapid wine coolers work.
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