How to remove chrome plate from Copper pipe?

[Nightdrive]

Subject says it all. Needto connect chrome plated Cu pipe to speedfit. Speedfit say I must removed the chrome for the connection. Presumeably as chrome is quite hard, and the stainless gripper things inside the speedfit connection can't grip it properly. It's a pig to remove though. I've been at it for ages with wet or dry paper. Am I missing a trick of the trade? All help appreciated

[Al Reynolds]

Some people use a compression fitting to convert the chrome to normal copper, then speedfit from there. Al

[Derrick Crane]

Wow. I knew you couldn't fit speedfit connectors to stainless steel but I thought chrome-plated Cu was OK. I made one connection like this and the fitting had no problem biting through the chrome plate. It's perfectly tight and as it's only 3ft under the tank there's very little pressure on it but thanks for alerting me to this.

Derrick

[Nightdrive]

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a go (onsome old pipe first!) Greg

[Nightdrive]

It's probably just speedfit covering their backsides. I suppose it depends as you say on pressure, and probably how well the joint is supported (is it trying to pull out or bend sideways)

I suspect removing the chrome has it's own problems - any score marks would compromise the seal and would probably need polishing out.

[John Stumbles]

---8<---

I have had a speedfit connection to chromed copper pipe pull out under mains pressure.

[Andrew McKay]

I imagine you are really referring to the copper pipe pushing out under mains pressure (rather than pull out). Not that it matters.

Sounds like a good reason to be using compression or solder joints when dealing with mains pressure.

Andrew

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[Andrew Gabriel]

I pressurise pipework with air before connecting it up to the water. You can use a bicycle pump and leak detector spray to find leaks. The air leaks out much faster than water would through the same leak, so if it's air tight, it will certainly be water tight at the same pressure. Also, the air leak doesn't damage anything else, and doesn't wet the pipework making soldering of joints harder. One of the vertical cycle pumps (looking like a detonator) can easily reach 4 bar, although if that includes something like a radiator, you'll have to be fit and it will take a while. You can use a compressor too. Just beware of the potential energy you store up in a radiator pumped up to even

2 bar, and try to resist the temptation to see how far you can fire the pushfit endcap you temporarily fitted to hold the pressure in, at least without goggles and ear defenders ;-)

[Andrew McKay]

Gosh, I'm learning!

How do you make the connection between the pipework and pump? These arrangements typically don't have a convenient tyre valve :)

Andrew

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[Hepworth Plumbing Products Tea]

The recommended method for testing pipe work, and the method outlined in the Water Regulations (and BS6700) is to use a hydraulic test pump. These are available at plumbers' merchants, but are expensive to buy. Test pumps can also be hired by the day from hire shop such as HSS.

The practical requirements for testing a Hep2O are here: -

test methods (there are two alternatives for plastics systems) for Water Regulations testing are in para. 12 here: -

normal circumstances a test to 1.5 times working pressure will suffice. Working pressure is usually defined as normal incoming mains pressure after any pressure reducing valve that may be fitted.

The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team

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