How to have several identical wireless doorbells respond to the same code?

[MM]

I have this amazing wireless doorbell. I've mounted the chimer on a little wooden stand that I can move from room to room. However, I'm not always in the room where the chime is. So, for example, in winter I have the kitchen door closed to conserve heat, but if the chime is currently in the hall I may not hear it.

Even if I bought another couple of these (they're not expensive), they would each have their own bell push and each "pair" would respond to a randomly different code. This is done to minimise the likelihood of a neighbour's bell chiming when your doorbell is rung.

Could the component parts (bell push, chime unit) be modified so that several chime units would respond to the same trigger code?

MM

[dennis]

Mine comes with a random code on the push and you program the sounder to the push. You need to RTFM to see if yours is similar.

[Tricky Dicky]

We bought a plug in wireless system with a separate second push switch which if I recall was easily paired to the bell unit. I do not think it is possible to do it the other way round in other words pair a push switch to several bell units.

Richard

[Brian Gaff]

I'd have thought this would be possible. I remember two of the many in a block of flats used to chime each other. Somebody must make devices where you can have more than one slave bell. Brian

[FMurtz]

Not nesecelery, check, some have the wherewithall to change freqencies

[Huge]

For our last house I bought three identical bell push/chime (well, bell, but the principle's the same) units. They have a DIP switch inside that sets the code they respond to (to stop your neighbours chime responding to your bell push). I set the codes to all be the same, and then any bell push would set off all three chimes. The pushes were outside the front and back doors (+ a spare) and the chimes distributed round the house.

Alternatively, the Wickes units I have in this house came with one push and two chimes - one plugs into the mains and one has batteries. The push sets off both chimes. IIRC, these too have DIP switches.

My suggestion is check to see if your existing units have switches in them, and if they do, buy some identical ones, or failing that, start again with a model that has DIP switches and buy several of them as I did.

[Huge]

It is. I've done it. See my previous post.

[Mike Clarke]

It depends. Some of the cheaper ones may be hard coded and not possible but decent ones should have this facility.

We have 3 rather elderly Freidland Libra sounders distributed around the house which all respond to a single bell push, The push button and sounders each have a small block of 8 DIP switches which can be set to pair them or to avoid conflicts with neighbours' units. An additional switch in the push can be used to select between 2 different sounds if you have pushes on 2 doors..

[Graham.]

Why don't you give us the make/model of the doorbell?

If you can take a clear photo of the PCB in the bell-push (preferably both sides) I can probebly be able to tell you what you would need to change on any additional push to code it the same.

[MM]

I can't program the sounder here. It just chooses a random wave length to trigger.

MM

[MM]

What were these (make, model)?

I'll look on the Wickes website. Never thought, to be honest, about using the mains, even though I do use the mains for my TP-Link plugs!

The only switch is on the chimer and it merely sets the tune to select (from about 20!).

MM

[MM]

LUPO Wireless Doorbell Cordless Door Chime Kit, bought from Amazon in

2013. Still available for £3 more.

Since I posted this topic, I've followed up some recommendations in the thread for newer products and they can be ordered with 2 or 3 compatible plug-in receivers, so that's probably the way to go.

I'm not sure whether they have to be plugged into a wall socket directly or whether an extension strip would suffice (wall sockets are not too plentiful in my house).

MM

[Graham.]

Things that communicate via the mains wiring like power-line adaptors sometimes work better when plugged directly into the ring. Your doorbell receiver uses a built-in aerial and it doesn't really matter about extensions etc.

[Harry Bloomfield]

It happens that FMurtz formulated :

Change pairing code I think you mean. The frequency stays the same.

[Huge]

[15 lines snipped]

No idea. I haven't lived there for 2 years and I installed the bells years before.

The mains only powers the chime, it's not used for signalling.

Ethernet over mains sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

You need to start again, then.

[Huge]

[31 lines snipped]

It doesn't matter. They're only mains powered - the signalling is still wireless.

[Roger Hayter]

My 13 year old Friedland wireless ones could set any number of bell pushes to operate any number of chime units. And two different rings could be chosen by bell pushes. No idea if they work the same now, but one of the chimes is called 'Libra D280' if that is any help.

[newshound]

My "push" works three different sounders, not all the same make. *Some* types come with a jumper select for a few different frequencies, to help avoid neighbours devices. Some of mine can "lose contact" and need to be power cycled or have the reset button pushed before they connect again.

[MM]

No, it doesn't. It works fine with TP-Link hardware.

MM

[Huge]

Yes it does.