My 3-port valve is sticking and needs replacing. Although I've done it
myself in the past I'm not really inclined to do it again. My question
is, how much should I expect to pay a plumber for supply and fitting?
A direct replacement for the valve is =A385.
In article ,
I thought that and got one of the same make. Didn't fit - they'd changed
the design slightly in the intervening years. And of course the new one
was smaller which meant extending the pipes.
Assuming a partial drain down is required. I'd allocate half a day (£120)
and £50 for the valve and the inhibitor (Your source of supply is way off
the market price). So £180. Might come down to £150 if the customer is
previously known to me, i.e has a track record of not making trouble etc.
I'd be happy to do a few extras whilst I was there (e.g. a tap washer
say), if the job went well.
the =A340 valves just as good as the =A380 honeywells?
As the system will be drained there are also two thermostatic radiator
valves that need changing, the current ones vibrate like mad.
My heating programmer is also a little iffy. It's also the type that
can't set HW and CH independently, and also only does 1 day. What
should I expect to pay for a 7 day timer?
Is this starting to sounds like an all day job?
In article ,
That's characteristic of valves being used with the flow
in the wrong direction. Nowadays, I think most are designed
to work with flow in either direction, but that didn't used
to be the case.
Many heating engineers won't touch the electrics. The last
few I've had dealings with either had a separate electrician
they brought in for that, or asked me to do it.
If it's just changing to a different timing method then it's a fairly
trivial job. If it's making HW and CH independent then it can get a
bit more tricky as the wiring will need to be understood. Have no
idea how much timers are. Look in Screwfix for example.
Personally, I'd go for the well-known brand. Honeywell stuff is more
expensive for a reason.
That's a bit crap, the whole point of using a 4073 is to permit either
or both at the same time.
I have a Honeywell ST6400C, I think it was around £30. However a fair
bit of wiring may be required to take advantage of the two-channel
facility. The timer and motorized valve have to contrive together a bit
to make it work.
The plumber will put the valve in, but unless you plan to DIY, you'll
want a spark to do the wiring of the controls for you. If you haven't
already done so, it would be a good opportunity to fit room and cylinder
stats as well. It won't take long to pay for itself.
The current timer does allow water, heating or both together, but they
have to be for the same timings, i.e. if it's set for twice a day then
the water and heating will go on and off together. I can't set the
water to be on between 5:00-6:00 and the heating between 7:00-9:00 for
I read about the rad stat valves being in the wrong direction, but it
looks like our valve can go either way, so I guess it's a different
I plumber is due to call me back tomorrow, so I'll get a quote.
In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
If you come back to a cold house and want it quickly heated,
then heat sucked by the H/W heating may not be desirable.
If you have the heating providing setback or frost protection
whilst you are away, you don't want the H/W cylinder heated.
Still not much help. If the hot water store is depleted by the previous
day's use it will need a certain time to heat it up. If there is some left
the time taken will simply be less. So unless you are happy with no hot
water you simply give it adequate time - after it has heated up the boiler
will switch off or be available for the space heating.
In article ,
Ed Sirett writes:
I used Drayton TRV4's throughout, and they are nearly all
installed what would have been the wrong way around before
they were bi-directional (because I try to install them all
on the return side pipework). They work fine, although in
practice they probably don't shut down much, as the whole
house gets to temperature at the same time.