I am visiting an elderly friend on Tues - about 20 miles away. He has moved
into a retirement home - stone built old house modernised and dry lined.
He has asked me if I will put a mirror on the wall for him. I want to be
sure I have the right stuff with me as I don't want to leave the job part
done.Not sure it it will be dabs and dots - or battens - but the
positioning will be defined by the symmetry.
Any really good proprietry fixings I should make sure I get?
With many PB fixings it seems essential to tighten a screw to make
something open. This will mean I need some sort of hanger and not just a
screw-head to hang it on. Apparently it has a wire at the back of the
mirror.
Not got one. Unfortunately my old friend believes me to be some sort of DIY
Superman. He would be horrified if I turned up with anything bigger than my
old electric drill.
If I was doing the job at home then there would be more options as I could
easily change my approach - go to the shop to buy something else and have
another go.
I really need a quick fix - adequate but reliable.
On Sunday 10 March 2013 11:22 DerbyBorn wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Hehe.
Seriously...
The PB will probably copy with the mirror - but the question is - will the
fixings?
Some other solutions:
1) Screw a batten on the wall with 3-4 screws into decent PB anchors. Fix
mirror hook to batten.
2) Drill 5mm hole through PB. Use syringe to inject filler behind the edges.
Leave to dry. Redrill an inch deep (into the stone if needs be). Use big
plug (that needs a 5mm hole). This assumes the gap betwene the PB and stone
is a few mm.
3) As 2 but use car body filler. Suitable for big gaps.
--
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A normal plasterboard plug will take a hell of a weight in 12.5 mm board
(1m x 1m 6mm glass IME). If dot 'n dab, then straight through into the
stone with a normal plug and a longer screw.
I always think of the old MFI kitchens where the wall units were screwed
through 3mm hardboard, and then filled with a complete dinner service.
Don't remember any sliding down the wall :-)
You can install a hollow wall anchor, then back the screw out a bit to
hang the wire on.
Best to hang the wire over 2 fixings to spread the load.
With dot n dab its often possible to use hollow wall anchors if you
drill on over length hole
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
a
The fact that the mirror has a wire to hang it by indicates that this
is not a muckle great full length mirror, but one possibly no heavier
than a picture, so I would go with MHD on this with the two fixings if
any doubt.
Rob
On Sunday 10 March 2013 11:25 The Medway Handyman wrote in uk.d-i-y:
+1 for hollow anchors if there's a big enough gap.
This type is really good - as strong as the PB itself:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hollow-wall-anchor-5-x-72mm-16-32mm-pack-
of-10/11143
Needs a bugger of a big gap behind though.
Failing that, these are not too bad:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-metal-35mm-pack-
of-100/11923
but not as strong.
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/
http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage
On Sun, 10 Mar 2013 14:46:21 GMT, DerbyBorn wrote:
Hollow wall anchors. Yep that is what I would use and like TMH two if the
mirror is heavy or if a single one would be near the center of the gap
between studs. A stud finder might be something else worth taking...
If you can match the distance from the flange to the first kink point of
the anchor to the thickness of the PB all the better.
honestly the best way to put a mirror onto plasterboard is to glue it.
If you must hang it via a wire, really do NOT expect the plasterboard to
take the strain over the small area of an expanding bolt or whatever.
Experience here shows that with stud-work, the simple and easy way is to
carve out a horizontal section of plasterboard carefully with a knife or
fine pad saw between some studs, let in a piece of ply, MDF or a noggin
that is reasonably securely attached to the studs, (or if there is
blockwork behind that, screw it to that) and replace the plasterboard
gluing it to what you have inserted. Then a skim of polyfilla and a bit
of paint makes the section good.
For dot and dab, drill right into the blockwork behind and get the
rawlplug-gy thing into the blockwork and use a long screw. You may mess
the plasterboard up a bit round the hole doing this, but simply infill
with filler once the screw is in place, or at leasts once the plug is in
place.
--
Ineptocracy
(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
I understand it is a framed mirror - so glueing is not an option. Your
ideas are all very good and ones I would use at my house - however - I
want this to be a one visit quick hit. No mess - no drying times - no
return visits.
I wonder how heavy the mirror and frame are? I have successfully used
3M Command Strips to fix quite large framed and glazed pictures for
the last few years without any problems. The largest type that adhere
to the frame and wall (velcro) come in packs of 4 which will hold up
to 7Kg.
The immediate areas of the frame and walls that the strips are to be
fixed to will need cleaning thoroughly before the strips are applied -
I use Isopropyl which works well.
On Sun, 10 Mar 2013 11:34:32 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
Agreed. On the recommendation of our local glaziers I fixed a 900x750
mirror to plasterboard using Hodgson Mirror Adhesive which is
apparently compatible with all known mirror backing paints (which
general purpose adhesives are unlikely to be) and will hold glass up
to 1 m2.
I have glued a mirror onto my own wall.
In my case with the one in my original note, the mirror was a framed one.
Asi it turned out it wasn't too heavy. I tried making a pilot hole with a
bradawl and it didn't go into a void or hit masonry - so I used a couple of
screws and a small hanger.
On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 11:16:19 PM UTC, DerbyBorn wrote:
of
I know it sounds outrageous but the recommended method is with small pads o
f blue tack. A glaziers will sell you these or your local stationers. I use
d this method 20 years ago to fix a 1500 x 500 mirror on to a cupboard door
and it hasn't budged in all that time.
They hold the mirror close to the vertical surface so all the weight is onl
y transmitted downwards. As you will find out if you try, it is relatively
easy to hold a mirror against a wall using light pressure only. Much easier
than just holding it by its bottom edge.
Bring on the doubters and nay sayers.
Experience speaks louder than words.
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