Halogen to be banned

When I looked into this, the issue was with cars and not bikes. You can fit LEDs to cars if there is some self-levelling of headlamp aim and headlamp wash-wipes. Those rules don't apply to bikes.

I also read that these rules only apply to lamps above a certain light output.

BICBW

I hadn't. ;-)

So some (visible light) passing though my windows will heat the glass?

Check.

I 'got' that radiated IR would 'heat' whatever was in it's path till completely absorbed but I hadn't considered what would happen to visible light etc (but appreciated it contained energy etc).

;-)

Cheers, T i m

doesn't have to be removed - just disconnected.

FWIW I put a dimmable LED lamp in mums 'touch sensitive three level' table lamp (and two similar used as bedside lights) and it/they worked fine? I can't imagine it was bought with LED compatibility in mind but it could have been LED compatible of course.

They might have been bought from Homebase FWIW.

Cheers, T i m

The fact that CFL often take a few seconds yo 'warm up' helps with that.

Some of the LED lamps that come on and off automatically as driven from my Home Assistant system seem to 'ramp the on brightness' slightly (quickly) and much more visually down when turning off (compared when turning them off at the wall) so that change in functionality is probably because they are being used 'smart'?

When they are off at the wall they are completely off (electrically) of course whereas when off from Home Assistant they are still powered but are set to zero light output.

If you set them to come on via a remote of some sort you can gave them come on at whatever level is appropriate (and that could vary depending on the time of day) but still be turned up or down as required (same remote).

Cheers, T i m

I expect it's a single brightness lamp so no problems with dimming.

My ASDA three brightness lamp failed so I replaced the touch circuit with an inline switch. Then I bought a replacement which was single brightness and took LED. Had to as it can only switch 4W.

Very wise. Dimmers intended for incandescent lamps tend to be leading edge. Even if it did work, I suspect the different non-linear characteristics would mean that the LED lamp wouldn't dim nearly as much as the halogen.

I'm sure halogen will still be available in its guises, but not from the leading manufacturers, and so be of a somewhat variable quality.

I assume that would be a receiver function. Can you provide details of the lamp (systems) you're driving?

Is this over Wi-Fi, over mains, or some other transmission medium?

Quite. I've bypassed the ballasts in mine to save a few watts

That could make more sense. But I think you're wrong. That is the problem with headlight regs. They don't mention light output.

True, a 'smart' striplight ... but I don't suppose a 27W 5' one of those would be 16 pounds?

I do actually have a self-adhesive stop of LEDS that give me colour and brightness that I was thinking of sticking up in the same place as this striplight (it's under a single bed that I built into the box-room wall and over a full width 1M deep desk) and I still might give it a go. It's an Aldi branded jobby and whilst I can fully control it on the Aldi (and other) apps, I can't (or I can't as yet) fully manage it in Home Assistant.

;-)

Yeah, I was going to setup something similar, an 'All lights on full' or 'All lights off' remote button but haven't as yet. I think I'll get some more of the little 'Trafdi' remotes because they are cheap, seem to work fairly well, seem to be pretty reliable, every good on batteries and are magnetically held onto their backing so can be lifted off. They also seem well supported in HA and I have already used them for controlling all sorts of things.

I think they are (or were) 6 quid each or 10 quid if bought with an ES27 smart lamp? I'll probably get them with the lamps as 4 quid for a fairly bright / flexible lamp (you can change the colour temp and brightness ... and with a 3 yr warranty(?)) seems pretty good value?

Cheers, T i m

I tried looking up the claim and have come to the conclusion I must have dreamt it. From:

Section 4.1.4 now states the following:

?Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.?

This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights.

There are no mentions to fail other LED bulbs such as brake lights, tail lights or reversing lights."

I suppose when it is absorbed it produces heat.

Bill

Generally? Only one type. I know that when I've swapped fluos for LEDs the latter haven't seemed much brighter, if at all.

Bill

Interesting. I'll get an LED replacement bulb, and give it a spin then.

I'm sure the 'guts' all come from the same place in China !

Yes, and it's typical broad nonsense. It depends on the design of your headlamp unit if a different light source gives a decently controlled beam.

I did some tests on mine, which has projector headlights (the type with a bulls eye in front of the bulb) Have a convenient car park with a white wall, so you can see the beam pattern easily. It was identical with the original halogen, HID, and LED. This type of headlight gives a very sharp cutoff due to using a french flag to shape it. (It also allows an easy change from RHD to LHD by simply changing the flag - some do this with a lever)

Non projector units will likely produce a lot of scatter when you change the light source, as the size and position of this varies with type of bulb, so will be out of focus.

But there will still be idiots who change their colour. ;-)

I would have thought the wiki article be a general comparison, BICBW.

I have a direct comparison between some ageing fluorescent tubes and their LED counterparts.

I recently replaced some Sylvania 6ft T5 tubes rated at 70W.

I bought some Energiser replacements and these are cool white rated at 30W.

Because of access issues I still have the original florries in some places.

It means I can make side by side comparison. The LED tubes provide a natural white, where the florries have a magenta tinge, lacking green in comparison. Others have also commented that the LED tubes are brighter.

You also have to take the ballast into consideration but given the temperature this runs at I guess the loss is 5-10W, possibly more. I shorted the ballasts when fitting the LED tubes.

This is a place where there are 19 tubes, so the power saving is significant. After a year none has failed. These are branded tubes as I was wary about getting no-name ones.

That is my experience, I fully accept YMMV.

Interesting. To my eye, "daylight" CFLs have a very faint greenish tint, like looking through thick glass. And florrie tubes always used to reproduce on daylight slide film with a strong green cast: you used to be able to buy a pale magenta filter to compensate for it (*). So it is interesting that your florries look to have too *little* rather than too *much* green. Shows how unreliable film and the eyes are when faced with a discontinuous spectrum!

(*) I wonder if the same filter worked for all films or whether some brands had different spectral sensitivities to others. And of course you'd need a different filter for each type (warm/cool-white) of tube.

Its fredxx he cant rell his arse from his elbow. It is well known that fluoros have an overall green cast.

It worked for all films more or less. No two film types were the same. Konica print was the film of choice for portrait as it rendered flesh tones brilliantly. Fuji did nice greens. As did Agfa. Kodak was horrible

- glaring bright colors - ok for arty shots, but nowhere near natural Kodachrome however, especially 25, was a beautiful - and extremely expensive - film

Age also makes a difference. I took two bodies on holiday to the Med once, and found one had film in it from ten years before. I shot it, but it came with a massive green cast. Digitised the negs and played around with Gimp and got very acceptable final results

I think that was the last time I used a film camera