Grout?

Jan 03, 2014 7 Replies

I want to be able to string some temporary electric fence tape across a stable yard which is too "solid" to take spike-type fence posts. I have rigid fixing points at each end, but want some intermediate posts.



I have some posts which have lost their "spike" and plenty of 20 litre containters originally used for industrial chemicals.



My "cunning plan" is to cast a thin grout in the bottom third or so of some containers, holding in place posts inserted through the filling hole.



The grout doesn't need to have much strength, I was thinking about 1:1 OPC and soft sand, but how much water can I add and still have it "set"? It needs to be reasonably easy to "pour" through the 50 mm filler. I suppose I could just use wet sand.


In message , newshound writes

Very hard to over water grout as the surplus rises to the surface. Just keep adding until you can pour:-)

Or use twice the depth of water?

Or make a funnel for the sloppy mortar to slide down?

Or use sloppy mix skim plaster & a funnel?

Jim K

It doesn't need to set at all surely? Sand would hold the post in place and sink to the bottom of any water you might add for extra weight. Seems like an awful waste of grout :-)

Thanks all for the comments. I should have made it clear that I am using grout in the civil engineering sense, not "tile grout". I would definitely have used "old" finish plaster if I had any to hand, but I do have half a bag of cement which has been hanging around for a while so it's not an expensive job. But I'm going to give it a go with just sand and water later, to see if that gives enough stability.

grout in the civil engineering sense, not "tile grout". I would definitely have used "old" finish plaster if I had any to hand, but I do have half a b ag of cement which has been hanging around for a while so it's not an expen sive job. But I'm going to give it a go with just sand and water later, to see if that gives enough stability./>

Why old finish plaster?'? "new" is only £5 a bag... And gives you the ful l 30 mins pour time...

Jim K

Because I'm an engineer. I like the cheapest solution which is also elegant

:-)

Then cut back from 1:1 to 1:6 or worse. 1:6 will be more than strong enough, once cured. If you want you can improve tensile strength by adding fibres.

NT

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