Perspex cover off the fridge door - hinge pin broken off !
I know the collective will have all sorts of solutions but I'm thinking of turning up a simple brass pin with a large head and glue it through the wall at the appropriate point. Brass to perspex - araldite do?
Thanks Rob
Superglue is good on perspex. I think it actually does a solvent weld. Maybe a tight fit roughened pin with either superglue, or even melted in.
I have mended a freezer compartment flap which broke this way by holding the two broken surfaces in a flame for a moment and then push them together, although I don't think that was perspex. YMMV.
May struggle at those temps; once I just had a stubb left, so I drilled out and created hole (where stubb was) to match a wallplug diameter. Then I found a suitbale plastic wall plug and cut to size so was held in place mechanically not glue.
Many, many years ago I used Araldite in this sort of role - worked OK as an adhesive. But it left a horrible smell in the refrigerator for a very long time afterwards. Maybe if I had taken more care over mixing, or curing, or something, it would have been OK? But I would choose something else.
Turn it? If you're that well equipped, drill and tap a cross hole, then bolt it in place.
If it's clear plastic, it's as likely to be polystyrene as Perspex (acrylic). Either will glue with decent epoxy, but brass is usually awkward. Got any stainless or aluminium instead?
Piece of plastic wall plug (the stuff that comes in a 6" long piece and you cut a bit off) and a self-tapping screw in my case. I doubt you will get any glue to stick and keep working for any length of time.
knurl the bras de grease it and even if epoxy doesn't stick, you can mould it round it.
Dave Osborne pretended :
Actually you can and it is as strong as the original, assuming you still have the broken bits. I managed to break a perspex (acrylic) caravan window along the full length of its hinge along the top, the most highly stressed part of the window. I bought a solvent welding solution to repair it and it was a lot easier to repair than I expected. It is a very thin solution, you just put the broken parts together, then trickle as few drops over the assembled joint. It then makes its way in by capillary action.
I can lay my hands on either, but what out of curiosity is the problem with brass?
Rob
No idea of the technical explanation, but stuff doesn't like to stick to it. Painting brass is quite tricky. Epoxy is your best glue choice, and knurling is definitely a good idea. Degreasing is advisable too.
For real perspex, chloroform is a good solvent. Tensol Cement is a perspex glue made from perspex dissolved in chloroform. Until a couple of years ago, dad had a tin of it, which in spite of saying "Use by Aug 1969" on it, still worked fine.
I've never tried painting brass but certainly copper requires a defined primer. I did successful Al to Al and Al to wood joins recently with wood working PU glue, so might try a drop of that.
Thanks Rob
I used to make my own Perspex cement from a 50/50 mix of chloroform and ether, with Perspex turnings and scraps added to make it a bit viscous.
That was in the days when a 12 year old could go into almost any chemist's shop and buy those sort of chemicals with no questions asked.
Yes, but you cannot get them now - I tried and failed.
A quick google finds several suppliers. Looks like it's called Tensol No. 12 Cement.
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