Its probably ethylene propylene rubber or other synthetic. Check the specs for the device, it may tell you the type of cable. Chances are it will give a harmonised cable code that could look a bit like H05RN or similar. You can decode the meaning of these codes using this:
That#'s not the issue: the issue is that non armoured or armoured ducting is not suitable for underground use.
If the cabling is permanent it falls under that aegis.
fifteen years ago, and have only had to top that up once in all that time.
This may work, but they are likely to contain something waxy. I meant the maintenance and assembly sprays which you will find in Screwfix / Toolstation / CPC etc. FloPlast is one brand which makes them. They are a bit like WD40, but that contains mineral oil products which upset some types of rubber.
I was going to look out some links, but just google Silicone Spray and the first page gives plenty of choice.
Use what the cable TV installers use a good strong Nylon cord and wrap that around the cable you want to pull so its as "streamlined" as possible, then they do use a silicon spray stuff thats designed for the job and sometimes they are pulling a few hundred metres.
Or if you cant get that a rather dilute washing up liquid can work quite well...
If string can be sucked down with a vacuum cleaner, do this and attach cable to string and pull through duct.
Doing our garden, I have buried seven metres of ducting to run cable for a water feature. It is rubbery mains cable, and I need to get it through the ducting. The ducting is 19mm internally, and has a slightly "grippy" feeling to its inside, as does the cable.
Now, I was hoping I could pull the cable down the ducting. No such luck - it gets stuck at the tiniest of curves. I have tried sucking it down with a vacuum, which has been no more successful.
There are no tight bends, just gentle curves. String can be sucked down with a vacuum cleaner without any problems. So, I'm guessing the issue is friction - rubbery plastic against rubbery plastic.
The big question is, is there a lubricant I can add to the cable to get it around the curves? I could dig the trunking up, but if the water feature (a small, sealed pump) ever failed, then I would need to get a new cable down.
I don't want to leap in trying greases, because if I used the wrong one, and it made matters worse, I may be stuck with trunking I can't use at all. The pump cable needs to thread through the base of the water feature first, so the cable could not have been put in before the trunking was installed.
Thanks,
-- Jason
use the string to pull a rope through, then tie that to the cable and pull the cable through. Ducting is usually 'roped up' prior to laying, so that the cabling etc can be pulled through at a later date.
En el artículo , Jason Judge escribió:
No.
But make it a single run of cable - water WILL find its way into any joints sooner or later, even if you think the ducting is dry. If the pump comes with a flex that is too short, put a weatherproof IP66 socket next to the pond and plug the pump into that.
Whatever you do, make sure it is protected with an RCD at the supply end.
The pump is a little fountain, and it looks like one of the things you put = in your fish tank (made by the same people). The cable is 10m long, and sea= led at the pump end, so there is no join to have to make.
I was guessing water would get in eventually, but the lowest point is where= it comes into the house, and so water could drip out there if it needed. T= here is bare soil under the floor, which is damp enough anyway, so a few dr= ips of water would not be noticed.
The ducting comes through the house wall under the ground. The space under = my floor is about 2ft deeper than the ground outside, so I just drilled str= aight through underneath and passed the ducting through the hole. The cable= will simply pop up through a hole in the floor, along with the broadband c= able that is already coming in the same place.
The underfloor space is handy for crawling about under the ground floor, an= d I've put a few trapdoors in to make it easy, but the cat got down there y= esterday, and too scared to find her way out. What a job that was to drag h= er out.
-- Jason
En el artículo , Jason Judge escribió:
ok. That's good.
ok. I've done similar in my previous house, which also had suspended floors.
Not a good idea. Drill a separate hole for the mains cable, and connect it to a RCD.
That was a mistake, you should have left some food or catnip out (above ground!) and left her alone. She would have happily come out by herself eventually. She probably thought you crashing about and chasing after her was a game of hide and seek. BTDTGTTS.
Sorry, I wasn't being clear. I meant the broadband comes in through the sam= e wall, and comes up through the floor in the same corner of the room. They= are very separate otherwise.
I tried that for the first couple of hours. When I went down, she was cower= ing in a corner looking incredibly lost. I don't think she had a clue where= she was. Anyway - all safe and sound now. When this happened to a neighbou= r's hamster a few years ago, it found its way into the next door house unde= r the fllor, and was promptly eaten by their cat.
Much depends on the kit. Some of these are now coming with earth shielded flex.
As to legality, remember that BS7671 is an advisory standard.
Extending from work which is not to (current) standards, I am not aware of any insurance waivers which would automatically invalidate a policy.
(not suggesting that ordinary flex in a hosepipe is a good way to go at all, however if "following the rules" worries you more than doing a good job, then you any kind of stuffed anyway since doing it "right" makes it notifiable)
Not sure it does... if you plug an extension lead for your coffee maker into a kitchen socket, and the cable clip the wire to the wall, it does not make it notifiable.
(conversely, feeding your boiler from a plug and socket is still a permanent installation)
These mesh type pullers are quite good since they pull from the end without tipping the cut end of wire to the side, and they also provide a little "lubrication" at the point of pull by virtue of creating a metal to conduit interface rather than a cable insulation to conduit one.
That's a new tool to me. Sounds like a must-have. The problem is usually the cable bending to one side that catches. In the past I have soldered the pull rod (often a springy net curtain wire) to the cable so it is pulled from the middle to avoid this problem. Right, what's my TLC password ...? Simon.
... and what size(s) are you going to order?
looks like it could double-up as an industrial strength Chinese finger trap.
Certainly could. We were warned specifically not to mess with them, back when I was an apprentice telephone sanitiser. Apparently they've been known to pull fingers off.
You would hope that the experimenter would stop pulling before then ;-)
Very bad idea. WUL is thickened with common salt, so a corrosive salty layer is left as it dries out. This might or might not attack cable insulation and sheath materials, but it will certainly wreak havoc if it gets onto the conductors.
Use only an approved cable pulling lubricant, such as the already-mentioned 'Yellow 77'.
Ark Ship B then:-)?
Is that a rigid rule, as I'm pretty sure that partially burying cable ducting, laying paving slabs or similar over it and filling up to ground level (incorporating the required warning tape) used to be acceptable.
SteveW
Only if the ducting offers the same physical protection as the armor.. (which is not NEARLY enough to bother a 5 ton digger :-(
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.