I was wondering whether gas pipes can be run behind plasterboard studding? I know that gas pipes penetrating a cavity wall need to be sleeved, with one end vented, but am not aware of such a requirement for use within studding. Of course the consequences of a gas leak there are not so severe - a gas leak into a cavity wall could be disastrous, whereas a gas leak into a studding wall would not cause stuctural collapse ( if ignited ), but I thought I'd ask about any regs/best practise,
"Pipes may be run inside partition walls provided they are corrosion protected with anti-corrosion tape" (although I don't know whether that refers to stud partitions or solid brick ones? Not sure why you'd need the tape inside a stud partition?)
It also says: "There is a stack of rules governing pipes buried in floors, walls, ducts, passing between buildings, and between floors of flats."
I do find this whole area very confusing - AIUI you can't run gas pipes in enclosed spaces where a build-up of leaked gas would be very dangerous; inside a cavity wall would be as bad an example of this as any, as you say.
Presumably under the floorboards doesn't count as an enclosed space - is that because any leaking gas will soon pervade the rooms and make its presence known, rather than building up, undetected, to a dangerous level in an otherwise sealed space? If that's the case, then providing there's plenty of air gaps connecting the inside of the stud partition with the ceiling void above, then *presumably* it would be OK? I stress this is just my supposition, not an informed answer - IANACORGI! Hopefully Ed or someone will be along shortly with a definitive answer...
FWIW, after we moved out of a house once, the new owners detected a strong smell of gas, which had been retained under the suspended floor by the carpets, which we had removed. And no, the airbricks weren't blocked.
I have perhaps over stated the case here. The pipe will need protection where it goes through the p/board. Also you need to make sure that the pipe is adequately supported, bearing in mind that the p/board will not hold a pipe clip very well.
Gas pipe inside timber frame construction walls should be a/ ru vertically within purpose designed channels or ducts (i.e. a woode backing batten and two wooden side battens against which th pasterboard buts), b/ adequately secured to studding, c/ have a minimu number of joints with no compression fittings, d/ be protected wher appropriate from mechanical and corrosion damage. Do a tightness tes before you wrap and conseal the pipe.
A gas leak in any enclosure would be disastrous as the explosiv mixture of between 5 to 15% gas to air (though combustion usually take place at 9% under test) is soon reached. It is preferable to run ga pipes outside, and not ideal to run it inside stud walls, but vanity i such an important criteria in use guys' homes these days.
I can't say. The type of enclosure I'm talking about doesn't reall come under ducting though, it's more snug than that. I don't think i comes under the same rules, but the information I've given would pass corgi inspector's eyes.
What frightens me is that behind the walls of houses could be all sort of similar errors.
Pre formed flue blocks are a real danger. In a nearby council estate haven't tested a flue of that construction from that same estate tha has passed either a flue flow test or a spillage test. I have a whol gaggle of electric fires in my wake. There's nothing you can do to mak it safe for gas. Maybe it never was. For all I know the builder made real hash of the job. You'd have to knock a wall down to find out. Ye loads of houses on that estate have gas appliances. Many diy fitted b people whoi don't know how to test a flue.
The last one had so much soot around the fire surround I had no troubl explaining the danger to the customer. Quite literally she could hav sat down in front of the fire for an evening and died
Thanks for that Paul: I had already figured on solder joints, and the usual gas-tightness tests with that aerosol soapy spray stuff that is designed for this purpose. Ditto for protecting against mechanical and corrosion damage, and secure mounting every x inches ( I forget the figure, I'll have to look it up ). I also know about keeping it away from electricity cables ( at x spacing, again I will look it up ).
The stuff about putting it in channel is new to me, I shall look into that. The problem is that part of the run needs to be horizontal, and that means any channel can butt to the plasterboard as the studding frames are in the way. I had already decided to ventilate the plasterboard studding, with vents down at base level and up above the kitchen units to keep air ventilating ( help prevent damp too! ).
The previous owner buried the gas pipe in cement render - you should see the state of it - bright green!
Cement attacks copper pipe whether gas or water, it should have bee wrapped.
Corgi rules are quite clear that runs in stud walls can only b vertical, horizontal runs shouldn't run inside the wall. Horisonta runs in chases are also frowned upon.
15mm copper pipe clip minimums are 2m vert 1.5m horiz and for 22mm 2. vert 2 horiz. Most people clip more frequently than that anyway becaus it's not particularly secure at that. Pipe mustn't touch the mortar in bare brick wall because of the attack from the cement in it.
Distance from electic cable is 50mm by prefernce but 25mm can be used closer than that may be OK if you wrap the pipe with insulating tap where it comes close to electric cable or terminals/connections.
Very safest route for gas pipe is outside the house and straight through the wall into where it is needed. Any gas escape is imediately dissipated into the atmosphere where it presents no risk of explosion.
Explosion is your enemy with natural gas. Stud walls present a beautiful opportunity for the gas air ratio to reach explosive limits.
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