Our boiler is on the blink again (Baxi 130HE, expensive and only two years old, two years of trouble and grief and no help from useless Baxi "customer service" - no wonder they only guarantee them for one year).
*This* time, it appears to be the gas valve connector, having cleaned and reseated the PROM on the (second to be installed!) PCB, the random error codes have gone away and we are left with a consistent "ignition lockout" fault.Gone through the troubleshooting section of the manual, and basically found that the gas valve isn't opening. Checked the electrics, and found that although 230V comes off the PCB at the correct time, there's no power at the other end. Unfortunately, the connector is some sort of weird Honeywell thing, presumably with added electronics embedded... I will attempt to explain with some ASCII art...
PCB end +------------------+ +----------- . | |1-B- ---1-| L -A-------...--------| connector at |2--- ---2-| E ---------...--------| gas valve |3--- ---3-| gas valve N -A-------...--------| end |4--- ---4-| . | |5-B- ---5-| . +------------------+ +-----------
The PCB connector is just a straightforward three wire block connector. The troubleshooting guide tells me that I should be getting (at the point that ignition is attempted) 230V across A at the PCB end, and
230V across B at the gas valve end (with the connector disconnected).At the point of attempted ignition:-
I am getting a spark at the electrodes (as expected); I am getting (as expected) 230V across the two 'A' terminals; I *should* be getting 230V across the two 'B' terminals too, but get nothing; There is continuity between earth and the terminal labelled '3', but none between any of the 'B' and 'A' terminals. Therefore, I can't work out which of
1B and 5B is positive.Questions someone may be able to answer:-
1=2E What is the connector at the gas valve end doing? 2=2E If I wired the two A (plus earth) to the gas valve, and got the polarity wrong (I presume it is just a solenoid), is there potential for damage or would it just not work? 3=2E Is wiring it directly likely to work anyway, or do you think that 2 & 4 are likely to be crucial to the gas valve?Any help gratefully received - we are heated by coal fire + fan heater at the moment, and the nearest spare part (which is the entire wiring loom) is in Aberdeen (I am not), and they want =A372 + VAT + delivery. I am prepared to pay this if it definitely fixes the fault, but would like to prove it.
A copied response by email would be appreciated, as I can only get to newsgroups via Google at the moment, which is always a few hours behind. Please do not email the address given, it would be rejected due to spam. My address is ade@ the same domain. Thanks for any help!
Ade.