We have a bog standard larder fridge about 4 years old which is suddenly not doing anything at all - it might as well be unplugged but for the fact that the light is on! Otherwise, dead as doornail. Stat is switched to maximum.
I'm guessing a faulty thermostat (= probably diy repairable) or compressor (= new fridge time) - is that about right?
If so, any ideas how to distinguish these? Google ain't helping.
Thanks
Check with a neon screwdriver to see if live is reaching the compressor motor. If it is then the motor has probably failed and if it isn't provide a new path to power the motor to see if it will run (ie bridge the thermostat output contacts). Remember mains voltage can be lethal.
It is almost certainly the stat. Cheap online and easy to fit.
Thermostat, compressor, overheat cutout or wiring fault. A multimeter will soon show you which. All diy fixable but the compressor.
NT
soon show you which. All diy fixable but the compressor.
Doesn't even need a meter for the most common fault; thermostat. Take the cover off and short it out. If the frig springs into life, it's the 'stat.
If the lights go out, it's a wiring fault. :o)
Never check anything with a neon screwdriver
Well if the motor is running but nothing is getting hort or cold its either leaked or its the pump itself. if its no running then one needs to bypass the thermostat and see if it runs and starts cooling if yes its the thermostat, if no then its the motor.
Brian
You reasoning such as it is being?
Check the motor starter and cut-out assembly. Usually a single unit plugged into the side of the motor. If there is power getting to the starter but the motor does not start and then there is a click or a ping from the cut out then it's either the motor or the starter. Motors (if they have an external starter) have 3 connections, a common, a run winding and a start winding. Power is applied to the run winding and to the starter winding via the starter for a second of so to get the motor running. It then runs using the run winding. Check that the starter is not open circuit (replaceable), check that the start or run winding are not open circuit (new compressor). Have a look here
Dave By the way - take care - mains voltage can kill.
1/ I don't like them 2/ they are unreliable and ambiguous [1] 3/ the can be dangerous if damaged [1] - "ooh look I've got live on the live and neutral"
They are safe enough if you know what you are doing.
soon show you which. All diy fixable but the compressor.
Thanks all - I went through the above and evidently it's the stat which is indeed faulty.
I've just ordered another one, but pretty damned expensive I thought - £38 delivered (despite much googling!); and that's for a cheapo fridge costing IIRC about £120. Decided it was *just* worth repairing as it's only 3-4 years old. No doubt I'll regret that decision...!
People who know what they are doing DON'T use neon screwdrivers
Cleaning the contacts didn't fix it?
NT
AFAICS that's the first mention in this thread of cleaning any contacts; so, no...
The capillary tube is full of vapor. If it clamps to the evaporator plate is has probably rotted through.
Perhaps some of us can discriminate between the various the levels of light output according to potential.
Saying "People who know what they are doing DON'T use neon screwdrivers" simply isn't true.
People who know what they are doing are not allowed to use neon screwdrivers.
Light output level is irrelevant to the safety problems of neon screwedrivers. They produce false positives and false negatives, hence are not a safe tool and thus not legal to use on live circuits for work purposes.
NT
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