Is that why they sometimes seem to be somewhat small? Kind of like partially melted? Well SOB! Now I can sleep tonight! I thought I was losing my mind for a while.
I thought the kids weren't making sure it was closed properly.
Thanks for the tip. I'll stop yelling at the family now.
No I didn't. You didn't read what I said. I know how to conduct temperature measurements, thank you.
The temperature readings were made in the centre part of the cabinet, and I also measured near the top and bottom.
The evaporator of the freezer is in a compartment separated from the rest of the freezer and air is circulated between it and the food storage area with a fan. For the frost- free cycle, the fan is turned off and the evaporator is heated for a short period. This does not result in a significant rise in temperature in the rest of the cabinet because insulation separates the area of the evaporator from the rest of the cabinet and it is at the top anyway..
At the end of the cycle, the compressor runs to chill the evaporator before the fan is started again so that warm air is not circulated.
The particular freezer has microprocessor control of the whole operation and is highly insulated, so is able to maintain very tight temperature control.
Rubbish. The freezer compartment in the top of a fridge (if it has one) may run at around zero degrees. In a freezer, the normal operating temperature is in the -18 to -23 range.
No I don't mean degrees Fahrenheit, I always use Celsius.
No. Freezers should be nominally at around -18C. We don't use Fahrenheit in this country, unless you listen to Radio 2.
The frost free doesn't heat the food compartment to above freezing. That can stay at -18C. It just runs hot through the evaporator to remove water. Some older designs didn't have the fan/separate evaporator, so did warm the food compartment significantly during the defrost cycle. My parents had one like this about 20 years ago.
My freezer operates at -5 to -10 range. I think it's on the way out. I put a chicken in there about a month ago, took it out last weekend, defrosted it, started cooking it and immediately it began to warm up I could smell rotton meat! Not nice. Thinking it may need just to be regassing, however, the thing is only 4 years old (Hotpoint). Is it worth it or should I consider buying a new one. How much is it to regas a fridge/freezer. The fridge part seems fine, although that also struggled last year in the very hot weather. The f/f did get moved around quite a bit last year when we did the kitchen out.
Whoops, sorry just noticed the non-UK crosspost. Obviously US subscriber to rec.food.equipment can use Fahrenheit all they like (and can even listen to Radio 2 if so inclined).
I am still not convinced about your results. If a thermostat was set to less than a 1 degree C difference, between on and off, as you implied with your test results, then the freezer compressor would be constantly switching on and off, which would cost a fortune to run as compressors use a high starting current.
No it wouldn't. The rate of temperature change inside when the compressor is not running is determined by the effectiveness of the insulation and by the ambient temperature.
I am referring to an A+ efficiency graded appliance and much of that capability is as a result of insulation and of close control.
It is therefore quite reasonable for it to have a small hysteresis because this will not result in rapid switching on and off.
The results are the results. I'm sorry if they don't fit in with your preconceived ideas and older technology.
The big mistake was buying something from Hotpoint in the first place.
It's likely to be an escape of refrigerant or more likely the compressor on the way out. If the compressor is changed, then it has to be regassed anyway.
I suspect that the largest cost would be the call out. I would be surprised if the overall cost were under £100.
Then it's possible that the oil was displaced and the compressor ran inadequately lubricated. That would tend to explain declining performance. Manufacturers do suggest leaving refrigeration equipment for 24hrs after significant movement before running.
I find that messing around with domestic appliances that are unreliable just isn't worth the time and trouble. Many years ago, I adopted a policy of only buying good quality products with good service backup that hopefully will never be required.
Hence for laundry equipment I've used Miele, for refrigeration Liebherr and so on. The initial investment is more, but I've found it more than worthwhile.
Many years ago I adopted a policy of buying the cheapest appliance that would suit my requirements, I find that there is no great difference between the reliability if the cheapest appliance and the more expensive ones with some notable exceptions like Indeset which most people are aware of if they do a little research.
For example a Servis Grade A energy grade A wash washing machine for £180, I can actually buy 2 or more of these compared to a £360 to £440 machine and most domestic appliances are easy to fix when they go wrong.
With the more expensive German machines the spare parts are often 5 times the cost of the cheaper ones.
In reliability tests sometimes and I stress sometimes the cheaper makes are actually more reliable, White Knight for example with tumble dryers and Candy with dishwashers.
My 11.3 Cu Ft. Beko Frost Free Fridge Freezer for £240, again I can buy two of these compared to more expensive Fridge Freezers and the money I save can go to a extended warranty if so desired.
Also buying appliances is a bit of a gamble anyway, it does not matter if your expensive appliance has a failiure rate of just 7% compared to a failiure rate of 10% for an appliance costing half the more reliable appliance if you are unlucky enough to have your more expensive appliance fail.
We have an Amana side by side and it's very quiet and reliable. As well as the iceman in it (the story we tell our young daughter) we just hear the motor cutting in and out - not surprising with an appliance that size, particularly during a hot Australian summer.
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