Fridge/freezer replacement



and also I

frost-free
more than

up the

affects
removal
significant.
Did you check it with a Max/Minimum thermometer over 24 hours? If you did, you would get surprising results, but if you actually measure the temperature of the food, instead of the air surrounding it, then it would probably not be as bad as it seems.
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wrote:

I did both. The <1 degree was in air temperature in the centre of the cabinet with drawers reasonably full but not crammed
.andy
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wrote in message

a
you
the
the
Well something is seriously wrong with your testing, or your equipment, because most thermostats have about a 5 degree C difference between on and off, making a less than 1 degree difference impossible to achieve.
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wrote:

No it isn't. I know perfectly well how to do a temperature test, thanks.
This particular freezer has microprocessor based control and insulation to meet the highest energy saving rating.
The hysteresis of the thermostat is a great deal less than 5 degrees as it reasonably can be given the design and class of insultation.
If you have an old freezer with a mechanical thermostat, you may wish to consider updating it to a more modern product.....
.andy
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difference
impossible
I am still not convinced about your results. If a thermostat was set to less than a 1 degree C difference, between on and off, as you implied with your test results, then the freezer compressor would be constantly switching on and off, which would cost a fortune to run as compressors use a high starting current.
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wrote:

No it wouldn't. The rate of temperature change inside when the compressor is not running is determined by the effectiveness of the insulation and by the ambient temperature.
I am referring to an A+ efficiency graded appliance and much of that capability is as a result of insulation and of close control.
It is therefore quite reasonable for it to have a small hysteresis because this will not result in rapid switching on and off.
The results are the results. I'm sorry if they don't fit in with your preconceived ideas and older technology.
.andy
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-The hysteresis of the thermostat is a great deal less than 5 degrees -as it reasonably can be given the design and class of insultation.
Thanks! That's the best typo I've seen in ages.
I can stand down the Candy joke now.
-Rob robatwork at mail dot com
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On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 14:10:47 +0000, Rob S

uk.rec.humour added.
Now about the hysterical Candy joke ...
--
Martin

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On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 14:10:47 +0000, Rob S

I try to drop them in occasionally to see if people are awake.
In the last week I've done a number that have gone unnoticed...... :-)

Go, on, don't disappoint.

.andy
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also I

than
affects
Then you measured the temperature wrong. Please explain how going from -20 to -19 can remove frost. And, IIRC, freezers are designed to operate at about 0 degrees, not -20 ( I assume you mean f).
--
Peter Aitken

Remove the crap from my email address before using.
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On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 00:04:17 GMT, "Peter Aitken"

??? Mine is operating at -18 The fridge at 4. Both Celsius.
--
"Only Irish coffee provides in a single glass all four essential food groups:
Alcohol, Caffeine, Sugar & Fat"
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On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 00:04:17 GMT, "Peter Aitken"

No I didn't. You didn't read what I said. I know how to conduct temperature measurements, thank you.

The temperature readings were made in the centre part of the cabinet, and I also measured near the top and bottom.
The evaporator of the freezer is in a compartment separated from the rest of the freezer and air is circulated between it and the food storage area with a fan. For the frost- free cycle, the fan is turned off and the evaporator is heated for a short period. This does not result in a significant rise in temperature in the rest of the cabinet because insulation separates the area of the evaporator from the rest of the cabinet and it is at the top anyway..
At the end of the cycle, the compressor runs to chill the evaporator before the fan is started again so that warm air is not circulated.
The particular freezer has microprocessor control of the whole operation and is highly insulated, so is able to maintain very tight temperature control.

Rubbish. The freezer compartment in the top of a fridge (if it has one) may run at around zero degrees. In a freezer, the normal operating temperature is in the -18 to -23 range.
No I don't mean degrees Fahrenheit, I always use Celsius.
.andy
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My freezer operates at -5 to -10 range. I think it's on the way out. I put a chicken in there about a month ago, took it out last weekend, defrosted it, started cooking it and immediately it began to warm up I could smell rotton meat! Not nice. Thinking it may need just to be regassing, however, the thing is only 4 years old (Hotpoint). Is it worth it or should I consider buying a new one. How much is it to regas a fridge/freezer. The fridge part seems fine, although that also struggled last year in the very hot weather. The f/f did get moved around quite a bit last year when we did the kitchen out.
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If you receive no help here try 'Domestic appliance repair' group at yahoo.co.uk.
John.
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On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 09:32:02 -0000, "CMS Tom"

The big mistake was buying something from Hotpoint in the first place.
It's likely to be an escape of refrigerant or more likely the compressor on the way out. If the compressor is changed, then it has to be regassed anyway.

I suspect that the largest cost would be the call out. I would be surprised if the overall cost were under 100.

Then it's possible that the oil was displaced and the compressor ran inadequately lubricated. That would tend to explain declining performance. Manufacturers do suggest leaving refrigeration equipment for 24hrs after significant movement before running.
I find that messing around with domestic appliances that are unreliable just isn't worth the time and trouble. Many years ago, I adopted a policy of only buying good quality products with good service backup that hopefully will never be required.
Hence for laundry equipment I've used Miele, for refrigeration Liebherr and so on. The initial investment is more, but I've found it more than worthwhile.
.andy
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Many years ago I adopted a policy of buying the cheapest appliance that would suit my requirements, I find that there is no great difference between the reliability if the cheapest appliance and the more expensive ones with some notable exceptions like Indeset which most people are aware of if they do a little research.
For example a Servis Grade A energy grade A wash washing machine for 180, I can actually buy 2 or more of these compared to a 360 to 440 machine and most domestic appliances are easy to fix when they go wrong.
With the more expensive German machines the spare parts are often 5 times the cost of the cheaper ones.
In reliability tests sometimes and I stress sometimes the cheaper makes are actually more reliable, White Knight for example with tumble dryers and Candy with dishwashers.
My 11.3 Cu Ft. Beko Frost Free Fridge Freezer for 240, again I can buy two of these compared to more expensive Fridge Freezers and the money I save can go to a extended warranty if so desired.
Also buying appliances is a bit of a gamble anyway, it does not matter if your expensive appliance has a failiure rate of just 7% compared to a failiure rate of 10% for an appliance costing half the more reliable appliance if you are unlucky enough to have your more expensive appliance fail.
Regards,
John.
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On 28 Feb 2004 06:18:13 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (JhnWil875) wrote:

This doesn't account for the features and build quality and energy considerations of course......
.andy
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Well I did write 'cheapest appliance that suited my requirements', for example a Candy Sprint washing machine with grade A wash and grade A energy consumption for 169.99. Has about 20 programmes and a 32 minute wash, I only use 2, the 40 and 60 degree ones.
Now it only has a 1000 spin instead of a 1600, but I aint interested in paying out lots for a machine whose spin will shave 10 minutes off manual drying time and knacker the bearings.
Also spares are cheap.
Downside to the machine, the bearings cant be easily replaced but I can live with that knowing that it is less than half the price of some other classier better build machines.
Dishwasher, lowest model Bosch which cost 200, only has two main wash programmes instead of 20, does not have dinner plate warming, countdown timer, LED display, water quality sensors, audible alarms, delay timer or silver finish but does have the only 2 programmes that I would use anyway, standard and economy with a grade A wash and Grade B energy.
Beko 11.3 Cu. Ft. Frost Free Fridge Freezer, 240, Grade B energy, does not have antibacterial coatings, LED readouts, built in radio or teasmaid but does keep my food frozen at -18 and my food rerigerated at 7' C.
All 3 appliances paid for on Barclaycard and have a 2 year warranty, washing machine is now 3 years old and Fridge Freezer and Dishwasher 15 months, so far so good.
When it comes to energy considerations the difference between a B and an A is not so great as to justify me spending more than about 50 more on a Freezer.
The main thing I do is to research a new purchase to try and make sure it does not have a bad reputation before I buy it as then I am at least in with a fighting chance of it lasting and doing the job I want it to.
Ultimately buying an appliance is a personal choice and it looks like we both go completely different ways about it, You obviously like, need and use digital displays, alarms, timers, aquajets, radio's and anti-bacterial coatings on your appliances and I dont need these frills.
Good luck to both of us I say.
John.
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On 28 Feb 2004 22:43:37 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (JhnWil875) wrote:

I've had a Miele washing machine for about 12 years. It came with a 5 year warranty - they now do 10. It has been in daily use at least once a day, usually more all that time and has never skipped a beat. All servicing can be done from the front, which is good because it is seriously heavy of itself and has one of their tumble dryers stacked on the top. Condition is still pristine.

Miele dishwasher has 7 main programs including a top section only. We use about half of them and the half load is useful. It's among the quietest machines on the market.
I warm dinner plates in the Aga.

Liebherr freezer and Maytag fridge freezer.
I deliberately avoid things with antibacterial coatings.
I have other domestic appliances to make the tea.....

Not really. I look for quality and reliability first, then reputation and features.
Then I strike a very hard bargain on price.

.andy
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It doesn't - the frost is outside the freezer compartment cooling the air that is blown into the freezer isn't it??
Just because the cooling unit is warmed up to remove the frost doesn't mean that the main compartment containing the food is.

Eh?
Darren
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