In article , Bob Eager writes
Rather than removing the glass/jelly, I once scraped the paint off an OC71, and centrifuged the jelly to the bottom. Of course, Mullard then changed to opaque glass, then tin cans.
ISTR the OC71 cost 1/6d (or was it 2/6d ?), whereas the "proper" OCP71 cost 17/6d.
In message , Bob Eager writes
blue / white stuff IIRC
As for the 10,000 diodes for a tenner ...
I can remember red spots costing 10/6d. Perhaps something like 10 quid in today's money. One used heatsinks when soldering them - and held your breath.
And the AF115 for the VHF or was it 114 ???
And the AF139 in yer TV amp:)
Them were the days...
So who remembers EF91s...EL91s...and I forget the others...
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Until they started putting white opaque paste inside.
Then you had to carefully break the envelope, rinse out the gunk and stick back together.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
AF 116. Geranium.....
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Those came later, surely, with complementary output stages - AC127s & AC128s?
Popular kit that. A school friend of mine built one; he ended up working for the Beeb too, at Pebble Mill. I remember being shown round the CAR and studios there when it was all fairly new.
EF.* that was some sort of 6.3 volt heated triode wasn't it?.
Recall the EY51 the wire in EHT rectifier 'tho and the EB91 that double diode thingy?...
No - the previously mentioned Good Companion has it with a pair of OC82s.
It made sense to me.
Signal degrades over any cable. The signal degrades more over low quality cable compared to high quality cable. "xenelk" didn't lay claim as to the reason for the degradation, it could mean signal strength loss, susceptibility to interference or anything.
I'm not quite sure why you're arguing with someone who appears to agree with you!
"xenelk" said this:
If that's not about loss - in the sense of attenuation - then I don't know what is.
Yes you're right - my memory must be getting a bit selective.
No - correct about the E, 6.3 volt indirectly heated cathode, but the F means pentode. It's C for triodes (e.g. ECC81, ECC82 and ECC83 the ubiquitous double triodes)
No, EF implies pentode (E = 6.3 V heater, F = pentode). Triodes are EC.
Only too well.
With the heater that lit up like a beacon when heater volts were first applied. Yes, well.
How about the PD500 X-ray tube ^w^w sorry, EHT shunt stabiliser used in early colour sets?
Pah, modern miniature valves, those. I started on octal valves: 6K8,
6K7, 6SN7GT, 6V6G, 5Z4 (classic post-war 4+1 superhet line-up...).
I'm indebted to me 'learned friend....whos got a better memory than I!..
P was that series connected heather arrangement 100ma IIRC and
F was pentode and
Y was a 'wectifier
whatever was a tetrode?.....L or summatt!...
Actually, I was thinking about the 1.4V filiaments.... DF series?
Oh, that too...I had access to a lot of ex-Army stuff!
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required