Freeview/SKY quality

In article , Bob Eager writes

Rather than removing the glass/jelly, I once scraped the paint off an OC71, and centrifuged the jelly to the bottom. Of course, Mullard then changed to opaque glass, then tin cans.

ISTR the OC71 cost 1/6d (or was it 2/6d ?), whereas the "proper" OCP71 cost 17/6d.

Reply to
Frank Erskine
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Reply to
raden

In message , Bob Eager writes

blue / white stuff IIRC

As for the 10,000 diodes for a tenner ...

Reply to
raden

I can remember red spots costing 10/6d. Perhaps something like 10 quid in today's money. One used heatsinks when soldering them - and held your breath.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

And the AF115 for the VHF or was it 114 ???

And the AF139 in yer TV amp:)

Them were the days...

Reply to
tony sayer

So who remembers EF91s...EL91s...and I forget the others...

Reply to
Bob Eager

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Until they started putting white opaque paste inside.

Then you had to carefully break the envelope, rinse out the gunk and stick back together.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

AF 116. Geranium.....

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Those came later, surely, with complementary output stages - AC127s & AC128s?

Popular kit that. A school friend of mine built one; he ended up working for the Beeb too, at Pebble Mill. I remember being shown round the CAR and studios there when it was all fairly new.

Reply to
Andy Wade

EF.* that was some sort of 6.3 volt heated triode wasn't it?.

Recall the EY51 the wire in EHT rectifier 'tho and the EB91 that double diode thingy?...

Reply to
tony sayer

No - the previously mentioned Good Companion has it with a pair of OC82s.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

It made sense to me.

Signal degrades over any cable. The signal degrades more over low quality cable compared to high quality cable. "xenelk" didn't lay claim as to the reason for the degradation, it could mean signal strength loss, susceptibility to interference or anything.

I'm not quite sure why you're arguing with someone who appears to agree with you!

Reply to
Buxnot

"xenelk" said this:

If that's not about loss - in the sense of attenuation - then I don't know what is.

Reply to
Andy Wade

Yes you're right - my memory must be getting a bit selective.

Reply to
Andy Wade

No - correct about the E, 6.3 volt indirectly heated cathode, but the F means pentode. It's C for triodes (e.g. ECC81, ECC82 and ECC83 the ubiquitous double triodes)

Reply to
usenet

No, EF implies pentode (E = 6.3 V heater, F = pentode). Triodes are EC.

Only too well.

With the heater that lit up like a beacon when heater volts were first applied. Yes, well.

How about the PD500 X-ray tube ^w^w sorry, EHT shunt stabiliser used in early colour sets?

Reply to
Andy Wade

Pah, modern miniature valves, those. I started on octal valves: 6K8,

6K7, 6SN7GT, 6V6G, 5Z4 (classic post-war 4+1 superhet line-up...).
Reply to
Andy Wade

I'm indebted to me 'learned friend....whos got a better memory than I!..

P was that series connected heather arrangement 100ma IIRC and

F was pentode and

Y was a 'wectifier

whatever was a tetrode?.....L or summatt!...

Reply to
tony sayer

Actually, I was thinking about the 1.4V filiaments.... DF series?

Oh, that too...I had access to a lot of ex-Army stuff!

Reply to
Bob Eager

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