For peer review, new FAQ section: Power Tools.

Mar 06, 2005 88 Replies

Following on from the frequent "discussions" that happen round these parts regarding power tools and their selection, here is a first draft of a potential FAQ section on power tool selection.



Please feel free to offer (constructive) criticism. Suggest any sections you think I have missed, fill in any missing pros and cons, and (this will be fun) add more brands to the categories at the end!


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Choosing a power tool



Choice of power tool is a topic that comes up for discussion at regular intervals on uk.d i y, which frequently generates long threads of opinion and counter opinion! Much of this discussion seems to stem from different peoples understanding of what "DIY" is all about, as well as each person having often conflicting needs and expectations.



To help focus discussion, this section of the FAQ sets out some of the various tool buying policies. If you use this to identify which description most closely resembles your current need, you should be able to solicit advice from the group that takes this need into consideration, and will save you needing to wade through too many heated debates!



What do *you* mean by DIY?



DIY will mean different things to different people. For some it will be about saving money, for others it may be a relaxing hobby. It could be as simple as occasionally erecting a shelf, or changing a tap washer. For others it could be as elaborate as building your own house! It is safe to say that the tool you purchase to with the expectation that it will love in a cupboard for 362 days a year, may well be very different to the one that with which you indulge your hobby of fine furniture making five days a week. Hence before deciding on much else it is advisable to decide on what level of use you anticipate making of the tool.



Class of tool:



There is a huge variety of power tools available from the general purpose to the highly specialised. Almost every DIY shop will not only stock a selection of well know brands, they will often offer their own range of "own brand" tools, and prices for similar looking tools can range from as little as £5 to well over £500. Understanding the manufacturing and distribution model for these tools can go a long way to help understand this range.



Budget tools



At the cheaper end of the market, the majority of tools are manufactured in the far east at low prices and then "branded" for the eventual retailer. Tools in this category can often be purchased for very small initial cost. Typically however since access to the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) is limited, getting any after sales service and spares for these tools can be difficult or impossible. Often the retailer may offer more attractive warranty terms to mitigate some of these limitations. So if a tool breaks during its warranty period, then the retailer will simply replace it. However, after this time the tool will need to be discarded and a replacement sought. Note also that you may need to factor in the cost of your time should frequent trips to the shop be needed to acquire a warranty replacement.



High End tools



At the high end, tools are often built and assembled by factories owned by the brand maker, or built for them by OEMs to the brands specification. There will be a service and support network that will enable tools to be repaired, and spare parts obtained. Needless to say this backup and support has to be paid for in higher tool prices.



Mid Range tools



The mid range can be even more confusing since it can encompass tools from both categories above ? often with the range of tools available from the same maker taking products from both sources.



Class of dealer



Many tools are available from a wide range of sources including the big name DIY shop, to the specialised independent tool supplier. There are cases where a average quality tool purchased from an above average retailer will offer some of the benefits and after sales care that usually only comes with much higher price tools.


The purchasing factors



There are a large number of factors that can be taken into account when making any buying decision; some are obvious like features of the product and its price, but some are more subtle. For any given purchase you will need to weigh up these factors. They may often be different for each tool you buy.


1) Tool features
2) Purchase Price
3) Availability of spares and support
4) Tool quality (and quality of results achievable with it)
5) Total cost of ownership (factoring in your time to buy and maintain the tool, cost of spares etc)
6) Comfort of use
7) Speed of operation
8) Availability of suppliers (and service where applicable)
9) How much you anticipate the tool will be used
10) How long you need it to last
11) Brand image


Buying policies:



The disposable tool



This is an easy one! Sometimes a tool is needed for a specific job and then that is it. Chances that it will be used again are slim. Often hiring a tool is a good way to meet this need, but that will not always be cost effective or practical if you are going to need it on an ad hoc basis spread over several weeks.



In this category tools from the cheaper end of the market can be ideal, often you are not too concerned what the life expectancy of the tool will be, so long as it gets the job done. If it lasts longer then that is a bonus.



Pros


1) Can be cost effective compared to hiring
2) Ready availability of suitable tools from most DIY shops

Cons


1) The quality of the tool compared to a hired one may be inferior
2) Tool may be less comfortable to use, achieve lower standard of results, and take longer
3) You either need to store or otherwise dispose of the tool when the job is done


The "buy several" approach



The own brand tool may not offer the reliability and performance of a more expensive tool. However the price is often such that you can buy more than one of them for the price of a better tool. Should the tool fail you simply discard it and switch to its replacement and carry on working. Note also the same policy can be applied to any type of tool in any price range if it is important that you can carry on working, not just the "DIY shop special", Even expensive tools bought for business use may fall into this category.



Pros


1) If a tool fails you have an immediate replacement with no interruption to your work
2) You can have several tools "on the go at once". With things like drills this may equate to faster working since you will not need to stop to swap between say a drill bit and a screwdriver bit, just pick up a different tool.
3)

Cons


1) The money spent on two tools may buy one of better quality, which may outlast the two cheaper ones, give better results, and be nicer to use.
2) You need more storage space.
3)


The mid range choice



This is the hardest range to purchase from, because there is a huge choice, and it is not possible to make blanket purchasing decisions based on brand for example. Each brand will have good and not so good products in this class. Buying from this range is often what the ad men call an "aspirational purchase" (i.e. you would like something better, but budget dictates you buy something similar but cheaper!).



Pros



1) These tools can be well suited to the less intensive user
2) Results and quality of work that can be produced will often be higher than with lower end tools
3) After sales service and support may be available
4) Ready availability
5) Lots of competition keeps prices low.

Cons



1) May not survive intensive use
2) Quality, comfort of use, speed etc, may still be lacking
3) After sales service and support may not be available.

The "top quality" approach



Sometimes only the best will do. If the work you want to do demands the highest quality of finish, or you want the utmost comfort and ease of use from your tools then this might be the approach for you. You can expect tools in this category to stand up to intensive every day use, even for "trade" purposes. Reliability should also be better than the other groups, and spares and after sales service should be readily available. Ideally suited to the serious DIYer, the tradesman and craftsman.



Pros



1) Suitable for intensive hard work, including continuous running.
2) Highest quality results
3) Smoothest operation resulting in good finish and low operator fatigue
4) Good finesse of control
5) Service, support and spares, available.
6) More able to take "abuse"
7) More operator "pleasure" in operation.

Cons:



1) Tools are more expensive
2) Also more likely to be stolen if not carefully looked after
3) Even when repair services are available there may be down time waiting for repairs to be carried out.


Which brand is which?



Identifying which of the above groups a tool belongs to is not always straight forward. Many people will not even agree which is which. Some brands may make tools in several distinct categories, (which may or may not be distinguished in some way). Many brands will also acquire others so as to increase their range either up or down market without needing to reposition the whole brand in the marketplace.



Budget brand tools:



NuTool, JCB, Many DIY shop "own brand tools", Power Devil



Mid range tools



Bosh (green bodied), Black & Decker, Skill, Wicks own brand (grey bodied), Freud, DeWalt



High End



Makita, Trend, Bosh (blue bodied), Hitachi, Festool, Fein, Lamello, Freud, Elu, Metabo, DeWalt


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xx

^n

On the other hand cheap tools can give you useful experience of that type of tool and help you decide whether you really need a better (and more expensive) one. Ultimately if you use it enough to break it you know that you do!

'

Ferm

?????? PPPro (B&Q) Ryobi

Ryobi Atlas-Copco/Milwaukee

Really ought to say something about batteries and chargers(/cookers :-) since this is a big factor wrt cordless tools and a lot of people don't pay much attention to them.

Overall I think this is a general intro but we could do with specifics of particular tools including corded and cordless drills (e.g. geared speeds, variable speed, hammer, sds, roto stop, weight, torque limit, safety clutch, chuck size & type) jigsaws, circular saws, routers, angle grinders ....

;-), now that is a mental picture to conjure with!

Yes good point... a sort of "practice tool" catagory, not sure if I will get much use from it but get a cheap one to try...

Which were you questioning? (DeWalt being in mid range?)

Yup, a whole section is needed on cordless I think....

Yup... also perhaps the tools where there is a large jump in performance between the entry level tools and the top end. Jig saws spring to mind...

Perhaps the above could be in a section headed by tool type, along with a "why you might want one" catagory.

Nice job. A few points:

a full listing of brand names would be helpful, Ferm wasnt there eg.

dont overlook old power tools, getting an oldie has its place too, i bought some and consider them good purchases. Cost near nothing, good value, and handy for some jobs - only.

some tools have huge difference between good and bad, and with some the difference is much less. Eg jigsaws I would never recmomend buying anything but a good q one, anything less is bin material. OTOH most cheapo circs are fine, with the exception of poor devil.

It could be said in a lot less words, cutting the waffle would make it rather more reader friendly.

COrdless: this old chestnut needs addressing.

NT

safety: eg belt driven angle grinders vs direct drive, and torque slip sds vs those without. And metal drills vs plastic.

And maybe a word re electric planes, they look so harmless but are one of the higher risk tools. And praps mention that the yellow sparks off angle grinders really are yellow hot.

Oh! a lot of people use direct vent goggles with angle grinds, the local hospital sees people with eye injuries from using these regularly. Only use indircet vent goggles with a-g's.

And grit discs are much more prone to explode into pieces than diamond.

NT

Panasonic.

The average DIYer is better off with mains drill with torque control for driving. In most cases a socket is handy. Then no problem of batteries going kaput and change the whole tool. Unfortunately these tools are not cheap, but something you may have for 20 plus years, so not that bad. Mains and battery must be viewed very differently, as mains doesn't date that much and last far longer and gives more power. And only go battery of you really need that away from the socket capability, which most DIYers don't

SDS.

In my view a complete drill kit is:

  1. mid range 12v drill./driver
  2. £80 plus SDS drill with rotary stop
  3. cheap 700w general pupose mains hammer drill.

That covers the lot.

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You make it sound as if all budget tools will fail after a year or so. 6 years ago I bought a £15 Power Devil to drill pilot holes so I would not be changing drills. It still works.

6-7 years ago buying cheapo tools was a waste of money, now the "price/performance" has moved from high end tools to the mid range: Wickes (Kress) , Ryobi, etc. The quality of cheap tools has increased enormously. The lower end of the mid range is highly cost effective if reasonable quality is needed and the tools are infrequently used or bought for a project, e.g., an extension. If high precision is needed, mitre saws, routers, etc, then only some top end tools can fit the bill. Most jobs don't require high precision.

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Now that *is* sense. Cordless drills seem very attractive at first thought, but in practice for intermittent DIY use are likely to be a pain. And at about the same money, a mains drill will out perform a cordless one every time.

I think that this is fair comment. One could do this with a low end product, but with a mid range it may not be justifiable moving up to the high end if it involves dumping the mid range, and therefore being left kicking oneself for not buying the better one in the first place.

Also, there are cases where the real entry level gives a poor impression of the tool type in general. Jigsaws are a very good example of this.

Perhaps we could put in a few notes on where we know of exceptions like this.

I agree with you regarding Milwaukee. They are a very popular trade tool in the U.S. and seem to be more popular than DeWalt for the trade market.

I have difficulty with placing Ryobi anywhere above mid range.......

Definitely. Also motors and motor control.

If you mean generic comments to this level of detail, I completely agree. It's probably better to avoid getting too much into product and model specifics because experiences vary and information is likely to change quickly as models come and go. I don't think that any of us has the time to maintain a list like that.

Agreed.

I agree with your analysis of mains drills in the sense that if one has to pick *one* drill only, then there is a good case for it being a mains one rather than a crappy cordless one with poor batteries.

I don't agree with the notion of "average DIYer". I think that John's introduction is good in that respect because it allows people to identify themselves with what is appropriate to them and begin to choose based on criteria which are likely to match with that rather than aiming too high or too low.

I'd agree that it's not a bad mix and will do a lot.

Some people may prefer to put 1) and 3) together, probably add a bit more money to it and buy a good quality 14.4, 15.6 or 18v cordless.

If you have a reasonably good 2kg SDS with ability to stop the percussion action, you've covered even the mid range to smaller masonry requirements that are beyond a cordless.

wrote :-

Hmm , got a dewalt sds at work with a clutch, infuriating, only possible use is up a ladder or single handed

IMHO - the one drill that should get a lookin is the bosch sds with quick change chuck and rotostop - just so versatile and buy once last a lifetime. The problem is most people have never drilled masonary with sds - I used one at work for the first time 6 years ago and it was such a revelation I had to buy one.

Regards Jeff

Once you are above 12v they are a bit too big for constant driving.

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All SDSs have a quick change chuck. I assume you mean quick change of the bits.

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I'd agree with you on the larger 18v ones.

I can comfortably use my Makita 14.4v all day without problems although usually arrange things so that I have a cordless screwdriver for screws and the drill for holes. Possibly alternating tools helps.

Doctor Evil wrote :-

No - I mean quick change of chuck - you can swap from sds to keyless with no tools in seconds - very versatile, and they come in blue and green flavours too

Regards Jeff

I did chose my words carefully... hence "*if* a tool breaks...." rather than "when". I was trying to avoid giving the impication that it will fail, but at the same time wanted to point out the implications of what happens shoul it fail. However feel free to suggest an alternative form of words.

Many have a normal chuck that clips intio the SDS check. Makes it longer but works just as well.

Do Bosch supply the extra chuck? If not how much?

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Doctor Evil wrote :-

bit of a wobbly codge

Yes - see 3rd one down

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Jeff

For rough work, possibly. They introduce more slop than is desirable. Far better to buy a cheap mains drill - which will also run at higher speeds than an SDS.

I must admit I haven't had a mains drill with good enough speed and/or torque control to use for driving. If you can get one for the cost of a cheap cordless then there's a good argument to go for that. However since you can get a Bosch cordless (which I assume has a reasonable battery and charger) for £75 - £100 then if a good mains drill is similar price I'd say go for the cordless, unless it's really only ever for drilling a couple of holes once in a blue moon. Once you start doing any serious amount of work the lack of hassle of fiddling about with extension cables and untangling cables when using a cordless is priceless.

Can't see the use of 3 if you've got 1 and 2: I use a dW 14.4 (non-combi i.e. no hammer action) with universal/cordless drill bits (£8 for set of

5 from sfx) with which I can drill everything short of quarry tiles, and the SDS does the latter. The dW is small and light enough for driving too, although I previously used my lumpy old PPPro (Ryobi) 18V combi for that, and occasionally still use my 14.4V Site (another B&Q rebadged Ryobi, also lumpy) when I'm doing a lot of drilling and driving and don't want to keep changing bits.

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