Flooring repair

Feb 02, 2020 Last reply: 6 years ago 20 Replies

Have a Weyroc floor fitted over wood joists in a bedroom ... parents house built circa 1980



Floor is damaged in 2 places (legs of bed had gone through).... don?t really want to re-sheet whole floor, particularly as fitted wardrobes over part of the floor.



initially thought it would be easy ... make a square cut-out back flush with joist and fix a bearer timber on joist, to hold edge of new board, and screw some supports round underside of other 3 sides to form a frame to fit new piece in.



This plan stuttered today when I measured thickness of the Weyroc ...it?s 19.4mm. So presumably an imperial 3/4? sheet.



Anybody know if you can still get 3/4? sheet .... If not can you get 20mm as if I have to but 22mm that is not going to sit flush without a lot of extra work.


This is chipboard, right? Use 18mm, build the support up beneath it by

1.4mm with gap filling glue, like Gripfill, where necessary.

Or, alternatively use 18mm and use a self levelling compound on top, when you are done.

Can you salvage some of the weyroc from under the wardrobe?

I am sure 19mm chipboard is made..mmm...no, but 18mm is best option with 1.5mm shims..glue it in

Must be pretty crappy stuff if the weight of a bed and person make holes in the surface. Brian

Perhaps rick's parent were very vigorous!

You'd be up all night flushing the mattress down the toilet.

Owain

Old venetian blind slats make good shims for this sort of job.

Flooring had gone metric by 1980 though, surely. Are the panels

8 by 2 t&G or full size panels ?.

My house was built in 1976 and has 18mm chipboard flooring, using

8 by 2 t&g panels.

Weyroc is just a trade name?? and today they make a moisture resistant chipboard flooring that is claimed to be suitable for building during bad weather.

How far apart are the joists ?. Normally 450 mm centres can use 18mm chipboard (which I have) but if joists are at

600mm then 22mm chipboard must be used.

Chipboard was probably 18mm but has got damp somehow hence the expansion in thickness, might also explain how the bed has made a hole in it. Our first house was a 1975 build with 8 x 4 chipboard sheets for flooring they were 18mm, thicknessing was obvious in areas where water could ingress such as external doorways.

Richard

Nice:-) It always seems to be lino that was used when I rip up mismatching boards at houses.

Better to cut out a section half way over the joists each side and fit noggins between the joists also half covered by existing floor and screwed to the joists. Screw new floor peice into joists and noggins and the edge of the old floor to the noggins Pack and screw through, with plastic spacers or some other dense hard material to get the level right.

These are intended for filling access holes:

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but you need to cut a rebate to make them sit flush.

I've used metal conduit box covers when I've wanted smaller access holes

- you can make the rebate for them with a 64mm holesaw and a chisel.

Ah yes, I remember lino.

I still have a good collection of slats from dead wooden venetian blinds, but I have used up all of my metal ones. Aluminium drinks cans are also useful for fine adjustments (see "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance).

In the good old days you could just use a witch's tit to make up the difference in the floorboards.

Sections of DPC, folded over to double thickness is a convenient way to pack out slight levelling problems.

Vegans won't let you use a gnat's tadger any more.

Owain

A gnat's c*ck, Shirley?

Can't argue with that .. but it is now 40 yr old chipboard

Mine is 44 years old, and apart from slight sagging between the

18inch-spaced joists, is fine.

The only place where a hole had been made was where a 'plumber' made an access hole to fix an air lock in the

28 mm gravity feed to the tank. Looks like he used a club hammer to smash a hole and then propped up the shattered bits with a couple of lengths of 2x1 and put the carpet back down.

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