Floorboard answers

Jan 02, 2010 12 Replies

I posted some floorboard questions a while back, and as I've now done the job I thought I'd post what worked for me in laying my first substantial floor, in case it's useful to anyone.



The job was to lay 30 sq m of pitch pine T&G floorboards, resawn from old beams, onto joists at 400 centres. I had various questions over how to lay and cramp, and what finish was likely to be successful.



The boards came in a variety of lengths, so a time-consuming part of the job was selecting boards as I went, to minimise waste - it's quite salutory to watch your 10 per cent margin piling up as a heap of offcuts!



I left the boards indoors in the adjacent room for a month, to acclimatise.



I was fixing with 50mm cut flooring brads, and a hammer. The boards varied quite a lot in how hgard and resinous they were. Some were so hard that the brads would bend as I drove them in, and I drilled pilot holes. I also ended up drilling pilot holes at the ends of boards where they met over joists, to avoid splitting. In th end I found it quicker and easier to start every brad off by drilling 3mm or so into the timber, and setting the brad in the hole.



I started out cramping up the boards one run at a time, but found this a bit slow so went to two runs at a time. You could probably do three but I was concerned to get them as tight as I could, and to check that I wasn't wandering off straight by the marks I'd measured onto the joists (which proved unnecessary). I cramped them with two of these "decking instalation tools" from Toolstation:



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at 9 quid a pop were a bargain. They're a cheap knockoff of something American called a bowrench, and I found I could apply quite enough pressure and they locked into position quite well. They do seem designed to grip onto joists 2 inches wide, so I found a slip of wood inserted alongside my 50mm helped make things tighter at points where I was short of space to swing the handle.



I didn't make any serious attempt to sand the boards, as they were newly-sawn and had laid pretty flat. I took a belt sander over, with the grain, to take down any rough spots. My floor killed 9 belts. Pitch pine doesn't sand easily! I've also blunted a saw.



For a finish I used Ronseal Mattcoat, which is a solvent-borne polyeurathane. I listened to people's views on oils and waxes but decided I didn't want the maintenance. I thinned the first of three coats with white spirit, and applied the second two straight from the tin, and am pleased to report that it seems to have penetrated, covered and sealed quite well, even on the more resinous boards. Time will tell, I suppose. It's a bedroom and there will be rugs, so it doesn't have to endure hobnailed boots; though it feels pretty tough. I denibbed with 180 grade paper before and after the final coat, and the finished result is nice and smooth. I'm very pleased with it.



Cheers Richard


Sounds like a good result. Pictures though, or it didn't happen!

Well done that man ..I'm sure you feel a great sense of achievement .

I lifted all the boards in my living room ( Victorian Tenement) a couple or 4 years ago and what a messy job that was coupled with all the boards having been blind nailed ..I then cleaned the tongues + grooves up and relaid them using floorboard cramps I hired . A messy and tiring job but once sanded and coated by a local company it looked great . Had to lift some bits in the last week or so to lay microbore and cursed myself for them still being so tight together as they had shrunk a long time past ...LOL

Crap snipped

Should have bought a decent flat then instead of the dump you live in.

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geraldthehamster wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 16:23

An excellent write up - thanks. I'll be laying boards sometime - this is most interesting.

Sorry, yes ;-)

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taken before varnishing.

Cheers Richard

Tool designed for decking, but equally effective indoors with floorboards.

I think ordinary softwood would be a lot less faff to lay, but be more prone to shrinkage.

Always interested in your updates, Tim, by the way ;-)

Cheers Richard

Very nice. Good colour. :-)

The offset rad pipes both going the same way would annoy me intensely though. Not sure what I would have done, if the pipes under the floor couldn't be moved to make the spacing between them correct for the rad. Think I'd go with RH vertical and lesser offset on the LH one, on the basis the the LH end is nearer the corner an possibly more likely to be hidden by something.

geraldthehamster wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 21:23

That looks the Dog's Doobries. Excellent work - hope mine looks 1/2 as good!

Possibly the picture is misleading - both pipes are offset perpendicular to the skirting, not sideways - they appear straight when viewed from the front. It was done like this so they would emerge as close to the skirting as possible, and the first board could be slotted and pushed over them without too much of a gap behind. This makes it easy to remove the first two boards (which are screwed down) if access to the CH pipework is needed (the main 22m pipes from and to the boiler are here).

Cheers Richard

I didn't think for a minute the pipes were anything like other than what you say . If I could bend pipes like that I'd have done that too but I just went straight down so Ill neeed to either slice the piece of board below the rad in two lengthwise with cutouts for the pipe or just make holes for the pipe and jigsaw a piece out between the pipe and the back of the board ( angled at the sides so it can be slotted back in again and hopefully not really seen below the rad )

Got one for decking about 3 years ago, never used it inside. Fantastic tool. Some batches of decking boards are like a dogs hind leg, these things straighten them out easily.

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