Fixing toilets

[The Medway Handyman]

I didn't know that. Any idea why?

[Dave Liquorice]

Only a professional would use steel screws. Brass or stainless only, that's all I use outside for just the same reason.

My dreams must be reality. B-)

In your dreams. B-)

If it simply peels off how come it sticks the two together?

[polygonum]

There are several videos on Stixall, e.g.

it is a promotional advert but not too bad.

[The Medway Handyman]

It isn't as easy to get a good finish with a Fugen thingy.

[Tim Lamb]

OK.

I'll try some of that.

Twyfords have not wasted clay as the base is only 20mm or so thick.

I have considered making up a saddle to clamp the supplied bracket and then using several shorter screws but glue sounds simpler.

>

[Tim Lamb]

Hmm.

first pic. is our hall done by a professional.

[Tim Watts]

OK... Does it "drag" out of the gap - or stick and gunk up on the fugenthingy, or something else?

[The Natural Philosopher]

I can assure you that is rock solid

[The Natural Philosopher]

low tensile high shear adhesive bond

The same way you cab pick up your foot of the ground easily but not slide it along..

[Steve Firth]

If doesn't suffer from black mould. But it tends to have a matt finish. I've used it for sanitary sealing in several places. If you want a shiny silicone seal you can finish the joint square then apply a fillet of silicone and finish it off appropriately.

The worst thing I've found with it is that it isn't as white as silicone, isn't available in transparent and it tends to discolour over time. However it can be brought back to white with a pan scrub. It's much more abrasion resistant than silicone. When set it is more like rubber than jelly.

[robgraham]

This is one of those topics which as said re-appears here just too often and is clearly not universally accepted because the 'nay-sayers' just do not believe it works.

There was a major house refurbishment 20+ years ago here and I did both toilets that way - I don't remember doing anything particularly technical on cleaning but being a weekend professional I probably did

- what I didn't do was this tooth pick thing. I drew a guide line, slapped down white silicone, plonked on the pan and, well I suppose I left it for 24 hours or so.

But that was two toilets 20 years ago and both have stayed put all that time without the suggestion of a failure.

Please guys - it does work - just believe it does and stop whining about wiping your arse to the left or the right. Just accept it works, it's easy, quick and totally reliable.

Rob

[Terry Fields]

Peeling forces are among the toughest tests for real materials. 10-ton epoxy has little peel resistance and a strip of razor steel can be peeled apart by hand after the initial edge-cut on the short side.

Most people know the trick of removing a sticking plaster slowly (due to its viscoelastic nature) bur few realise it helps to ensure the peel angle of the free part is 90 degrees to the stuck part

- this goes for anything such as labels, etc. IIRC a 90 degree peel gives the greatest concentration of forces at the peeling edge, hence requires less pull.

[PeterC]

I used stainless steel screws with plastic sleeves and washers then a st. st. washer on top - oh, and a hex, head. No trouble to remove.

(Made mistake) of using Plumber's Mait, just as a sealant to stop ingress of, er, 'water', so not difficult to unstick.

In the case of Plumber's Mait, spend ages carefully scraping and trying not to damage varnish on plinth :-(

[polygonum]

has little peel resistance and a strip

viscoelastic nature) bur few realise it

part - this goes for anything such as

at the peeling edge, hence requires

Trouble is a 90 degree pull makes the substrate deform in many cases - especially skin. Pulling skin up like that can itself be uncomfortable. I find that as near 180 as possible is often the best approach. For reasons that are not immediately clear to me, this seems to result in less likelihood of the stuck on material breaking and the whole unpeel is often smoother and easier. I feel it cannot simply be that 90degrees give the highest concentration of forces. Maybe it is that the unpeel line remains quite straight - any bit of the unpeel"front"that starts to get left behind, be even the tiniest amount, automatically becomes a higher concentration of unpeeling forces and so (usually) then gives and keeps it straight.

[The Medway Handyman]

It just doesn't seem to give a smooth surface - works fine.

[Tim Watts]

Thanks - a lot of facts there I did not expect!

[Tim Lamb]

A search for ms polymer adhesive on the Wickes site turned up two... Geocel Crystal Clear and Geocel Fixer Mate (white).

>

[The Natural Philosopher]

I think I'll try hot gluing the next bog down.

[Steve Firth]

Ah that's useful info. I've never seen a transparent MS polymer before, the only version I could ever find was white.

Oh another bit of info, MS Polymer is easy to clean from tools and places you didn't want it to be using white spirit, as long as you do so before it has cured. After that dynamite seems like the only option.

[Tim Lamb]

St. Albans branch didn't have either this afternoon!

However they did have ms polymer *instant grab adhesive* in white or clear.