Fixing rad to wall

Dec 14, 2014 13 Replies

O.K. - I can't locate the screws which held the radiator to the wall before it was removed and the wall re-plastered.



So I have been trawling through stock to see what I have which might do.



I came across a bag of these and wondered....



They are about the correct size (the slot in the bracket is 7mm) and about the correct depth. They are designed to screw into wood. (O.K. to hold metal sheeting) The one thing they are not is tapered. So effectively self tappers with a bolt head, I suppose.



Anyway, clever or foolish?



Cheers



Dave R


No, they're designed to screw into steelwork. What's your wall made of?

A magnet no good for locating the old screws?

Well, I think they are designed to screw through steel work into wood - at least this is the application I have used them (or at least shorter versions) for. Screwing a steel roof down onto wooden rafters.

Single brick internal wall, 1930s semi. It was made very clear to me by the plasterer that he wouldn't plaster a wall with the screws still in the fixings. Said he had this argument with plumbers all the time :-) So no screws to locate (although it is an interesting thought to leave something small but magnetic in the old plug as a guide) - the screws were removed. I've found the big ones which hold the TV bracket to the chimney breast but I can't find the radiator ones. So I need to drill new holes in roughly the same area without hitting the old holes (unless dead on) or a mortar gap.

Fortunately, I've just found (one of) my ancient "I'm sure they will come in useful sometime" cache(s) of bits and bobs left over from plumbing jobs. Turns out there are a couple of radiator fitting kits, including even a little plastic bleed tool.

So I am good to start marking up and drilling.

Cheers

Dave R

By the way, does that silver stuff you can get for behind radiators actually do any good, or is it just snake oil? Brian

I assume it would only do any good for a radiator on a 'cold' outside wall.

AFAIK the current recommendation is to fit radiators on internal walls, not under windows as used to be recommended.

So in most cases probably not.

Cheers

Dave R

Nope, they're designed to screw through steel sheets into structural steel (i.e. girders)

Why? The alternative is to encourage cold air falling down from a window.

IIRC the loss of heat through the wall was more of a problem than the circulating draught from the window area.

Then again opinions may have changed yet again.

Then again in the lounge the window is a crescent shaped bay so a radiator would be a bit of a bugger in there anyway.

Cheers

Dave R

They're not designed for the job, but might work ok. Put one in and see if they're good & firm. Angle grind the tip off so its pointed & it would be much better.

NT

Rawlplugs and 2" No 10 roundhead or countersunk head steel woodscrews. If the render and plaster isn't too thick and the wall is brick, then you could get away with using shorter No 10 screws.

Cash

Never used to be any problem with smoothly curved radiators in bays. Mine a nd my mother's houses (1930s) have this. I have noticed in some newer house s a horrible solution with the radiator "folded" into several straight sect ions. Has someone lost a vital machine ? Simon.

Can't you (and a friend) hold the radiator back where it used to be, guided by the pipework, and mark the positions where the holes should be?

Robert

Er - loss of heat is the only reason you have radiators in the first place. By placing the radiators in what is otherwise the coldest part of the room, you avoid the temperature differential which you will get by placing them somewhere else. That temperature differential can lead to condensation formation in the worst cases, and to a significant cold draft crossing the room if you put the radiators on the walls opposite the coldest parts of the room.

Curtains fouling the radiators is something to consider.

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