Fixing carport wall plate to house

I'm rebuilding my carport which collapsed under the snow last winter.

The construction is, basically, a horizontal wall plate on which the rafters sit. The rafters extend perpendicular to the wall to a line of posts approx. 3.5m from the wall and then there is a series of cross braces and the whole thing is roofed with corrugated plastic.

The wall plate extends into free space to allow the carport to overhang the garage behind the house by about 1.5m.

What's the best method of fixing the wall plate to the brick wall? The bricks are white and don't take kindly to having holes drilled in them.

On previous constructions such as this I've used Rawlbolts (many years ago) but my brother-in-law was very sniffy when I suggested them and said that he uses glued fixings - he's a builder.

TIA

Richard

Reply to
RJS
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Concrete bolts like TMH will say in a while.

They are as strong as the resin fixings your brother-in-law is suggesting.

Reply to
dennis

I use these for decking wall plates, patio awnings & all sorts.

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or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill driver to put them in.

No expansion so no split bricks, can be removed & re used.

Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

In message , RJS writes

If you ahven't got one yet, probably worth investing in a SDS for drilling the holes then, much easier than a hammer drill.

Or borrowing one from your BIL

Reply to
chris French

But don't you need a clearance hole in the timber and a smaller hole in the brickwork? Have you got a stepped drill, or something?

Reply to
Roger Mills

Nah. The thread is not very deep (.5mm?), and that isn't enough to get stuck in wood.

Reply to
Martin Bonner

I think he probably meant resin fixing for the studs.

Reply to
chris French

You just drill straight through plate and brickwork with a masonry bit.

I always use steel washers to spread the load and to make them easier to tighten right up. As TMH says, they don't move afterwards and don't split the bricks...we buy them singly from local hardware store, about 30p each for the 100mm

Reply to
Phil L

Nope. For an 8mm fixing I use an 8mm bit, go right through, then drive in with an impact driver.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Yes, something along those lines - he went on about 'chembolts'. But all that sort of thing is outsed my experience.

R
Reply to
RJS

Thanks Roger

Which fixings on that page should I be looking at? Sleave Anchor or Through Bolt?

Rgds

Richard

Reply to
RJS

Thanks Dave

Which items should I be looking at on that pages? Sleave Anchors or Through Bolts? Don't these expand - much like Rawlbolts - to grip the hole? My concern about fixing into these wretched bricks is that even with careful use of SDS+ or 'normal' impact drills the holes tend to be ragged and uneven because of the way that the brick shatters.

TIA

Richard

Reply to
RJS

I wondered about joist hangers, but they don't solve the problem of the section that is exting over my garage and is therefor unsupported.

R
Reply to
RJS

I would use resin anchors ... no stress on bricks ... now easy to get hold of (even Screwfix sell them)

Reply to
Rick Hughes

Thanks Rick

This is what my brother-in-law (the builder) suggested. However, I have no experience of using them and am a little reluctant to learn on the carport. Is that feeble? Do you know of any idiot guides as to their use? I gather from Neil (BIL) that clearing all dust from the hole is essential. He also tells me that there are plugs to prevent the resin falling into the wall cavity if, as is likely, the hole breaks through into the cavity.

I have seen resin bonded rockbolts in use in a salt mine and was blown away by the speed and ease of fitment, but I don't have a multi- million pound machine to fix them to my carport :-)

Rgds

Richard

Reply to
RJS

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Thanks Dave. How do they work? I drill a hole that is the size of the inner diameter of the bolt and the thread simply cuts its way into the brick?

How do they cope with ragged holes and friable - if that's the right word - bricks?

In the good(?) old days I would have used Rawlplastic when putting (small) fixings into this sort of brick. Nowadays things are not so simple and this may be a situation where resin fixed anchors are the answer. However, never having used them I am very sceptical of their effectiveness/ease of use and doubt my ability to achieve a sound fixing with them.

Rgds

Richard

Reply to
RJS

bolts

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>>> --

If you buy M6 bolts you drill a 6mm hole, M8 you drill an 8mm hole etc. Size is marked on the head. They do cut a thread into the brick, so they fix without expanding.

Less likely to split a dodgy brick cos they don't expand.

There was a thread about them not long ago. Never used resin fixings myself

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Well we had to use them on a job fixing some aerial panels to a concrete water tower as that was the only method of fixing they'd permit.

The riggers doing the job reckoned that only an explosion would shift the once they'd gone off. Wasn't cheap the ones they used;!...

Reply to
tony sayer

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