Fence design

[F]

I'm fast becoming bored with having to trim ~40 metres of hedge each year and am thinking of going back to a fence. However, the fence would need to stand up to quite strong winds and I'm concerned that I may well find some of it inside the house if I get it wrong.

I was considering the type of fence that consists of horizontal bearers that carry vertical slats on each side with gaps between adjacent slats. Slats on one side of the bearers are staggered with respect to those on the other. With that design I would expect there to be less wind resistance and no loss of privacy.

So, if I've got the underlying idea right:

- are there 'standard' sizes of timber used for the bearers and slats?

- is there a 'standard' spacing for bearers and slats?

- would nailing the slats to the bearers be acceptable, or should I go to the trouble of screwing them on?

- if I use concrete posts to support the fence, how do I fasten the woodwork to the concrete?

- [anything I've missed!]

TIA

[Steve Walker]

It's called "Hit & Miss" fencing, and you can see a typical specification here -

[Skipweasel]

Personally I'd use slotted concrete posts, but make the panels you describe and drop them into the slots. All in all, it's probably worth it to avoid the hassles later when you have to replace rotted/damaged bits.

[F]

[F]

I'm sure that concrete posts are the way to go but is there a way to fix the panels in so that they can't warp or flex and be blown out of the slots?

[F]

Cough, splutter... the price of a 6' square panel has just sunk in... £64.80 + VAT!

[sm_jamieson]

I've seen brackets that straddle the concrete post and fix to the fence panel at each side (screws / bolts). Or make customs timber connectors to do the same thing. Simon.

[Nightjar]

They involve a lot more wood and work than a cheapo featherboard fence from your local DIY shed and do come with a 25 year guarantee.

A hurdle fence, which is available framed to fit conventional fence posts, is also a good option for lower wind resistance and are a bit cheaper. These people sell them:

Bignell

[F]

[PeterC]

Is this a problem with (relatively) recent concrete posts? The line post and fence posts at the bottom of my garden are ~60 years old and there's no sign of spalling, even where the metal cross is through the top of the line post.

Yes, that's what I'd use, although there's a water pipe somewhere down there!

Another advantage of molish it yourself - use stainless ring nails or heavily galvanised nails (if good ones are still available - mine are about

30 years or more old).

[Man at B&Q]

You must have bought cheap crap then.

Rubbish, see above.

Not if they are installed correctlty.

Again, only if you buy cheap crap.

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

Which bit of "*cheap* crap" are you struggling with?

I've *never* seen a concrete fence post (the usual slotted type 6' above ground designed for fence panels) spalling.

[Skipweasel]

I've seen a few, but they're ones that've been shot at, kicked until they fracture, rammed with tractors or otherwise abused. Used appropriately, they seem near enough immortal.

[Peter B]

[Man at B&Q]

There is no inside, as such.

MBQ