False stained glass

[Jimk]

Any reason why you couldn't do it on the actual glass?

[Max]

wrote

Thank you and back atcha

Korea, '50 - '51

Max

[petek]

A friend of mine would like a stained glass window with a bespoke design at the top of her stairs to replace the existing window. Real stained glass would be too expensive, even if I was capable and were to have a go myself, so I was thinking of making it with adhesive lead strip and glass paints on a clear "plastic" sheet and then fixing this on the inside of the existing glass. I've seen a few links on t'internet for this kind of thing but have a few questions. The existing window is a double glazed unit approx 500 mm x 1200 mm.

1 I'm confused re the different materials and what would be best for this. Polycarb? Acrylic? 2 Would 2 mm thickness be OK? 3 Whats the best method for cutting a sheet to the exact size of the existing glass? Score & snap? 4 I was thinking of fixing it to the existing glass by making it a few mm smaller all round and then using a narrow silicone bead to hold it in place. Any other ideas? 5 If I fix it rigidly in place as above, what about differential expansion? Would it buckle? Grateful for any advice. Cheers

[Adrian Brentnall]

Well - if you must..... <grin> - I work in 'real' stained-glass..

DECRA Led used to be the people who make this stuff, but they got taken over - you could look at

The double-glazing companies use the self-adhesive 'lead-on-a-roll' and self-adhesive coloured vinyl sheet.

There are also glass paints (Pebeo) - which can produce a similar effect.

I'd imagine you'd need a base that wouldn't bend - possibly bog-standard

4mm glass would be best - and there are 'secondary glazing' systems that would allow you to mount the glass relatively safely.

Depending on where the thing is to be fitted - you may need to consider using toughened glass.

[ss]

You may also end up getting condensation trapped between window and your stained glass sheet.

[petek]

Sorry if I have offended any "real" stained glass crafts people out there! Cost is just too prohibitive, as well as my expertise as a first timer (although I have cut window glass many times). Thanks for the links to suppliers of materials. As I said my first thought was to use a sheet of polycarb/acrylic but I don't suppose there is any reason why I shouldn't use a piece of ordinary window glass as you suggest. This would probably get over any differential expansion problems. I intend to fit it so that there is no gap between it and the internal glass of the double glazed unit to avoid condensation problems. The window bottom is about 4ft high on the landing at the top of the stairs, so I would not envisage any safety problems. Thanks again.

[petek]

None, other than working from a pair of steps or similar on a vertical surface. I thought it would be easier to draw and paint the freehand design on a horizontal surface and then fix it in place when we were happy with it.

[Adrian Brentnall]

Not offended at all - only kidding! I seem to recall that there were secondary d/g systems that used acrylic sheet - possibly 2mm...

You won't get a perfect seal between the existing glass and the new 'stained-glass' panel - you will get condensation. The way I do it with stained-glass panels, which are often fitted as 'tertiary' glazing, is to deliberately ensure an air-flow between the stained-glass panel and the existing d/g panes - simply be allowing one or two small gaps at top and bottom where the stained-glass framing meets the double-glazing frame.

There are a lot of folks who make double-glazed units using the stick-on lead on one of the glass sheets - you might find it cost-effective to get one of these companies to make you a single sheet of glass (rather than a d/g unit) but with the lead and plastic film already applied..

Another way to introduce the colour is with acrylic paints - Pebeo are the well-known supplier. These paints need to be 'flooded' into the area

- but if you're using the stick-on lead then you could do that..

Simple timber 'picture-framing' profiles can be used to secure glass panels to existing window-frames...

[tabbypurr]

2mm acrylic is warped before differential expansion, never mind after. Use 4mm if you want it flat. Plastics don't last, it makes more sense to use glass.

NT

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

One other thing. If the houses in a conservation area, then alterations like this could be an issue, but then if its already upvc, then I'd imagine there is no problem. Most of the ones I have seen are between the panes in a double glazed unit using the vinyl method mentioned in this thread. Cheap ones can go rather yellow or peel so be careful. Same goes for the fake leaded pane windows. Another thing is that it can make the area seem very dark in day time. Brian

[newshound]

Also, glass paints used to be solvent based, so quite possibly incompatible with polycarbonate or acrylic.

[RJH]

Maybe try this - if only to see what it looks like?

[Graeme]

In message <qr7vuh$18is$ [e-mail]>, RJH [e-mail] writes

The Blue Peter solution :-)

[newshound]

Is that one actually transparent though? In my first house (Victorian), the inner front door had plain glass but I was able to buy a suitable fake stained glass pattern. Not expensive, and looked fine from the other end of the hall.

[petek]

Thanks to all for comments and suggestions. Ill let you know how I get on. May be some time - as I mentioned it's a bespoke design by my friend and she hasn't drawn it yet!

[polygonum_on_google]

Many, many years ago I was involved in stage lighting. For one production, we created a fake stained glass affair. Something like 4 metres high, each panel about two metres wide, three made into a Toblerone on end.

The stained glass effect was made by casting clear polyester resin, coloured with transparent dyes. We spread the polyester onto Mylar (polyester film) sheet. The combination of imperfections in the Mylar (not quite flat, wrinkles, creases) and further imperfections in thickness of the polyester resin resulted in something remarkably close to mediaeval stained glass.

These were then cut up and assembled with black polyester resin representing the cames.

Lighting was placed inside the whole thing, it had castors so it could be rotated to display each side as required, and it was jolly impressive. Of course, that was a stage prop and didn?t need to look good close-up. But your requirement reminded me?