External low-voltage lights problem

A couple of years ago, I installed 3 (pillar/post?) lights on my drive. They use 12v 60w GLS ES lamps and are driven from separate outputs on a chunky toroidal transformer. This in turn is switched on by a PIR and relay, so the lamps seldom stay on for more than a couple of minutes.

Since I installed them, I have had endless problems with all 3 lamps taking random turns at not lighting. In every case, minor manipulation of the lamp has resolved the problem, although gentle thumps (simulating gusts of wind) make no difference. The lamp-holders were no doubt not designed for 12v high-current use, so I'm assuming that this is where the problem lies. There is no sign of corrosion or damp anywhere, and WD40 has been spectacularly unsuccessful at resolving the problem.

I have looked at the possibility of using12v high-efficiency lamps, but these seem to need DC.

Any suggestions please?

Ian

Reply to
Ian Smeaton
Loading thread data ...

New lampholders? What power rating are they?

Compact fluorescents are not a particularly good idea for short switching on a PIR.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

I take your point on CFLs. I bought the fittings from Screwfix a couple of years ago - they are designed for 230v with a maximum of 60w (IIRC) presumably to prevent overheating of the plastic transparent 'lightshade'. Are high-current ES lampholders available?

Ian

Reply to
Ian Smeaton

Well... My first thought would be to add a ELCB, remove the transformer, and use mains lights.

My second thought, if this was not practical, would be to get out the soldering iron, rip out the socket, and solder the bulbs in.

A couple of minutes per light tops, and no more problems. (of course, you now need to get out the soldering iron to change bulbs)

Reply to
Ian Stirling

There are various different quality ES lampholders available, but it's not generally possible to tell without seeing them (so it's trial and error on mail order).

I might consider changing to a G4 (up to 20W) or GY6.35 (35W or more) lampholder so you can fit a standard 12V halogen lamp capsule. This will probably entail some additional metalwork, and suitability might also depend on the type of diffuser or optics the lights have.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Thanks for your comments Ian + Andrew. I'm tending to favour Ian's comments on the use of the soldering iron, in the absence of high-current bulb holders (wonder why they make the high current ES lamps?)

Ian

Reply to
Ian Smeaton

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.