rrent hole size could be pushed sideways & cut, if not ideally. You might a lso get mileage out of those filing drill bits, but I bet a big fat spiral blacksmith's bit would be much better - and more expensive.
it would not go well
no, I mean blacksmith's drill bits. Assuming you want to move the hole side ways. If you wanted to enlarge it all round the stepped things would almost do that.
NT
then file it
but too deep to file, I think. I hadn't heard
NT
Sometimes that happens (and I have bent spade bits that way) but if you are only looking for a small increase in diameter it is sometimes possible. You feed the drill in vary gently when it is running fast, if you are lucky it cuts a conical entry which follows the axis of the original hole. Once you get a little way in, it becomes self centring.
I should also have said you need to have the door fixed fairly rigidly so that it does not swing. Either with wedges underneath, or clamping in place with a workmate.
doesn't work with a flat bit
Ohh. then a blacksmith's drillbit.
NT
No, it's not a moving the spindle hole sideways thing. I'm trying to make to latch hole in the side of the door wider and deeper.
Edge, yes. But then, I know nothing about doors :-) I wouldn't have called the large flat bits the sides.
Okay, might be a good excuse to put a multitool on my birthday present list. It's not far off :-)
Looks good. I hadn't imagined they made them so big.
Many years ago I had to do the same. Used a step drill to get the initial diameter correct (only a few mm depth of course) then a spade bit the rest of the way. Looking at other comments in here, I reckon I was lucky to get away with it. An auger-type bit would be less likely to bounce around, but might be too viscious and pull in. Something that I've used on chipboard, where there's severe risk of 'picking up' and losing control with a twist drill, is to use a masonary bit. It's almost 'backed off' and doesn't pull in sharply.
That's a fairly deep subject in itself! Youtube would probably be your friend to get some examples of good router applications.
A router is one of the most versatile power tools in the workshop. It will cut, shape, rebate and profile edges. Make joints, flatten surfaces, plane edges, carve, letter, flute... the list goes on. Much of the skill of using them is coming up with jigs to get them to do what you need.
Augers tend to pull in due to the effect of the worm drive on the front[1]. In this application that will be spinning in free space, and so not having any effect.
[1] A common trick to "tame" an auger is to pre-drill with a smaller bit such that you leave less or nothing for the worm to engage with.
I was thinking of the cutting edges 'picking up' the wood, rather like a HSS bit does on plastic. At work we had a few backed-off bits, but doing that to a 25mm auger is a bit expensive for 1 hole.
FWIW Bosch multiwotsits are already backed off, no alteration needed. It helps them survive the masonry busting action better.
NT
Agreed. A lot of skill and experience needed to do the harder stuff well. Also the tool which inflicts irreversible damage on a workpiece (or even the user) faster than anything else.
They are quite pricey though usually!
(last time I needed to do what you are describing, I went low tech an used a chisel)
That sort of comes back to what I was saying about using a masonary bit; I doubt if Bosch Multimaterial bits are available in 25mm (ICBA to check). I'd guess that most of us go up to 25mm masonary bits. With care, an SDS bit will be OK in an ordinary chuck with very little throw - might get ½mm extra on diameter that way.
A common trick, for me, in this sort of situation is to spin a holesaw counter clockwise, until it's worn a groove, and then spin it clockwise. With perhaps a little filing first, to establish a centre.
You don't get the aggressive bite in the reverse direction.
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