Electrical Power Sockets for ovens etc.

Its just about aceptable, but not nice.

Do check how much power each one takes though. You may find that e.g. the oven is only 3KW or so. And doesn't need such fat cables.

You will require two 40 amp cooker supplies, each with 6mm cable back to the consumer unit.

petercharlesfagg coughed up some electrons that declared:

No, it's never acceptable to do that.

What are the max power ratings of both appliances? What fuse/breaker is supplying the old cooker circuit?

The best solution might be another circuit back to the CU.

Might be possible is one of the devices is low power (

Poor advice

Better Advice

This would probably be my first approach if the existing feed is up to it. Note that you can apply diversity to the loading from a domestic cooker when calculating the total design load.

Indeed - the switch must be within 2m if memory serves correctly.

Its based on a fairly deep understanding of ohms law and heat transfer.

The section of 'small' cable is very very small, and although it will heat up more, its adjacent to both a large chunk of brass terminal, and a large chunk of thicker wire, and by definition its not covered in plastic.

Because its so small it wont result in voltage loss, and because its so small compared with sorrunding masses with large surface ares, it wont heat up.

Rules are made for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men.

I stand by my statement, its just about acceptable. I.e. it probably breaks a rule, but its safe enough.

It's not small. There's no good connection to the broken-off strands. The remaining strands get warm, oxidise and insulate themselves from the broken-off strands. This works its way back up the cable, and when done in both live and neutral, you can sometimes find the eventual failure where they meet in the sheath, and the combined heating melts the insulation. Often the heat going the other way will damage the wiring accessory -- it's a bit of a toss-up which burns out first.

There are crimps available to do this properly, and they ensure the whole conductor area is part of the connection.

It's a long well-established direct cause of cable and accessory failure.

What about people with shorter arms? :-)

Natural selection ;o)

will easily take two 6mm cables into its terminals and still allow the cord grip to work. If the switching arrangments are ok you could use one of these behind the plinth to split the power.

Adam

Friends, thankyou for all the responses it is really appreciated.

I am going to connect the wiring through a junction box so that both the hob and the oven can be isolated with their own switch, it does mean that I will have to chisel out a load more wall to accomodate the junction box but in the interests of safety it will be worth it and the peace of mind.

Thankyou again, Peter.

Remember that you can't bury a screw terminal connection junction box in plaster.

Of course you can, it's not legal but there is nothing to stop you doing it :)

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It will be under tiles, otherwise it will stand out like a sore thumb! Peter.

OK then, you can't bury a junction box under a tile either.

You can if its easy to remove for access. Eg. if he screws it on.

In which case make the connections via crimp terminals:

To alleviate any fears of the system burning out I have employed the services of an electrician who has fitted a junction box inside one of the wall cupboards and seperate cables to each appliance.

By doing so the tiles will have to wait because I NOW cannot afford them!

Thanks everyone, Peter.