I'm thinking about getting a planer/thickenesser and paid a visit to a local tool merchant who also deals in second hand equipment. He has a machine that is the right size but has a 3 phase motor of 1.5kW. Now it just happens that I've been given in the last couple of weeks a fairly up-to-date 2kW single phase motor.
Forgetting about the possible mechanical problems of changing the motors over, are there any other characteristics that are likely to cause bother - I haven't looked at motor speeds yet but that is just changing the pulley size. Will I have problems for instance at start up as the planer will have a fair amount of inertia ?
I'm no great fan of planer thicknessers. They're expensive and narrow, compared to spending the same money on separate machines. The pressed steel ones are wobbly enough I wouldn't like to buy one S/H, the cast iron ones are heavy and awkward to convert between modes
What is it ?
The old wood-working machines site is worth a look.
formatting link
Particularly the electricals section of the FAQ
Mechanical problems shouldn't be underestimated. Belt sections are no longer the same as a few years ago, nor are the spacings for multi-belt drives. Even motor shafts are likely to have changed diameter from imperial to metric. Last time I did this I had to replace the triple pulley to fit one with a taperloc bush to fit the new shaft, and even an approximately suitable pulley had to be ordered in and cost as much as a small motor
You'll probably need a new starter, as old ones are often less than ideal. It must be a no-volt release type and should be a proper contactor with separate control switches, not one of those awful American hold-in magnetic switches. It _must_ be of a suitable rating for the motor and it should have the overload trip adjusted for an appropriate current. Most 3 phase starters are usable on single phase, but the overload calibration needs to be appropriate.
If you buy a starter from mail-order toolshops, get one from Axminster, not Machine Mart or Screwfix. While you're about it, you can also fit knee switches to stop it and you should fit a separate rotary or cam isolator switch.
The PUWER 98 regs may apply to you, depending on where you site this machine (and whether it's sold as working kit). It's possible you might even need to install (very expensive) electric braking on it.
formatting link
- I haven't looked at motor speeds yet
Shouldn't have changed. Everything is either 3400 or 1725rpm, so you've an even chance of it just working right.
Shouldn't be any problem - it will take a little longer to come up to speed on single phase, but not so you'd notice.
This is amateur land we're in so regulations - weIl was going to say 'don't apply' - what I probably mean is 'can be ignored' , and although not 'certified', I'm a competent electrician. Also time is not important but space is so a P/T it has to be.
A days poking around and asking has led me to looking at a 1.5kW convertor which is available to =A3150+ and may be a far simpler and speedier approach, with the advantage that the machine is sellable without any modification.
Thanks very much for your full reply - you have covered just about everything I needed.
I totally agree on the point of converters being a total pain in the proverbial. I'd much rather go for a good induction motor than use a converter. :-)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.