When you say new home, is it recent build or old build?
That is to say, if old build check 1) loft insulation thickness 2)
cavity wall insulation thickness.
Economy-7 is about 4.9p v Peak-Rate 10.4p.
All electric heating is 100% efficient at point of use, energy is
neither created nor destroyed, so oil filled or ceramic brick or fan
heater or thermodynamic bollocks fluid heaters all produce the same
There is a perception difference between fan heater & oil radiator &
dark-red-radiant heater. An oil radiator will create a local hot spot
around it along with some radiant warmth, very good at under-desks for
avoiding cold legs. A fan heater conversely is very good at fast
*bulk* heating if, and only if, it has sufficient kW for the room
size. A dark-red-radiant heater (£150) will directly heat objects
rather than the air (the objects then heat the air), which gives
instant warmth (little halogen heaters are very weak, but priced
Now, there are many high priced heaters around:
Aluminium radiators with thermodynamic fluid in, with silly claims
attached. They are perfectly good all-welded aluminium radiators with
oil, sometimes a timer or instead a basic thermostat. The actual
radiator "itself" is worth about £70 for 50cm width (750W) and £180
for 100cm width (1500W), a simple thermostat element "itself" is worth
about £45 and a timer unit about £65, anything above that is over
priced. Argos/Homebase sold Calortec last year, £105 got you a 700W
well finished aluminium radiator with basic thermostat with offers and
about as much as they are worth. Such aluminium radiators are popular
in warm countries which require only infrequent heating, want the
aesthetics or central controller, such as France, Spain & Portugal.
Examples are Roiinte & Ducasa, plus I think Calortec & Karilel still
exist. The silly claims are a play on wording based on "official
studies". The claims are nonsense, peak rate heating unless you have
2010 levels of insulation is *expensive* and *horrifically expensive*
if you have open chimneys (even with a dead gas fire stuck in them!).
German ceramic block, thermodynamic bovine scatology pump, and so on.
These are not storage heaters, they only duplicate the "high thermal
capacity" of an old cast-iron radiator, they are for German levels of
insulation (which is you have the albert hall outside and cupboard
inside it re 200mm Polystyrene or Celotex).
The benefit of aluminium radiators is 1) design & style 2) thermal
output for their size - hence the GCH crowd sometimes fit them. The
cheaper ones are welded-aluminium, not much wrong with that but you
can not change them. The more expensive ones are individual extrusions
which you bolt together until something like 22 sections of 80mm
width. They can be very attractive, Italy designs & makes quite a few
with good finish re paint & edging - at a price.
There are better heaters than conventional storage heaters, and that
is the commercial fan storage heater type. These are 240-285mm deep
and run £550-1350 for 2kW to 8kW for 660-1610mm long. Some are a bit
ugly and lack any on-peak heating element (Elnur do a 2-3-4-5kW
version, Stiebel I think do 3-8kW cheap but very long), others such as
Dimplex VFM & Creda TSF are more aesthetic and have an on-peak
element. They all involve a super-insulated body which loses very
little heat - 40% of heat is retained 17hrs after charge ceased which
is the *next morning* never mind the evening. This avoids the cooking
you overnight and freezing you during the day. The heat is pushed out
of them via a fan controlled by a thermostat (often wall mounted like
GCH), but at floor level - they do not leak heat out like a normal
heater. The downside is their price, but they do work well. Germany
has about 9 different types, basically Dimplex VFM is a good example.
Very good for people who only have electric heating, but out all day
and want more than background heat when they return - they are proving
popular in America re 1) high insulation 2) large spaces 3) fit-n-
forget reliability, and I bet they cost less than they do in the
So basically you insulate until you are warm enough :-)
Thermal linings for curtains help even double glazing, checking
draught excluders & hinges even on double glazing are working right
helps too. If you do not have modern insulation that is the first
thing to check.