I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.
On Sun, 13 May 2018 17:20:28 +0100, email@example.com wrote:
Another and possibly easier way is to use my internal bearing
extractor with slide hammer (assuming I have one that fits the ID of
the bearing etc).
But you are right about the heating effect ... I once froze a
motorcycle wheel bearing whilst heating the ally wheel with a hot air
gun and the bearing just dropped in! It also came out a lot easier
when warming the wheel up as well.
I just re-bearinged a couple of trailer hubs and having a 10 tonne
hydraulic press and a lathe to turn suitable 'pushing' tools makes
that sort of job a breeze as well. ;-)
I've also got a set of external bearing pullers that again, as long as
you can get them into place make such jobs very easy (as does having a
Cheers, T i m
Yes, I've done that in the past. In this case I was surprised that
heating (rather than cooling) the race worked so well - I presume it
transferred heat to the housing and then shrank back faster than the
I've often wondered about making a press with an old bottle jack but
there's always been another way of solving problems so I haven't needed
to do it.
Mine fall off, or the centre bolt wanders around on whatever it' pushing
against. I used a Dremel slitting disc to cutter the inner races so I
could crack them off the shaft.
It's down to the bearing suppliers tomorrow for the new bearings, then I
can continue mowing :-(
On 13/05/2018 18:00, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes, that's a great technique especially on "heat sensitive" hardware.
Going back to the "welding" approach, that will make the bearing lose
its temper. Most such metallurgical transformations result in a
dimensional change, I don't recall which way it goes for bearing steel
ATM but sounds like they must shrink. The heat will also "cook" any
sticky degraded oil residues. I've never been quite sure why a gas axe
is so effective on things like exhaust pipe clamps. You don't have to
melt them off, get the bolts red hot and they usually unscrew easily
(even though you might expect any new oxide created to make them tighter).
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I remember being fascinated by the way they put the tyres onto
I pooh-poohed the idea at first, thinking that tyres were
always made of rubber and trains don't have rubber tyres!
(I was about 12 at the time.)
The guy does have a certain "style" admittedly. But he did explain it,
the rag and grease are used as a seal and the bearing is removed
There is another video from someone with a more conventional style, this
time using kitchen towel and water as the hydraulic seal.
Just thought it might be useful to mention for where the use of heat
might not be an option.
He didn’t say anything at all about it being removed hydraulically
and didn’t even explain that the thing you are hammering in needs
to be a decent seal with the inner of the bearing for it to work either
or that the cloth is necessary so that the grease doesn’t just get
moved thru the bearing itself when the drift is hammered.
Yeah, very useful technique, but it does need to be pointed out
that it works hydraulically, that was the problem with the original.
I THINK it is the 'hydrolyic' method. You fill the hole with grease and
use something as a piston to compress the grease into the hole- the rag
helps the seal. The pressure of the grease, forces the bearing out.
I've seen it done in a pilot bearing before (car gear box/clutch).
Yeah, that does make sense. It wasn’t clear that the original was
actually in a blind hole, complete lack of any detail like that.
And presumably grease and cloth works better than paper towel
and water too, not needing the drift to be such a good fit to the
inner of the bearing.
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