I will be needing to apply preservative to some garden fence
panels in the near future.
I like the idea which I've seen, here on uk.d-i-y I think, of making a
shallow 'bath' for such panels, by putting down bricks to make a
border, then putting a polythene sheet down, and pouring preservative
into the area. This way I can 'dunk' the panels rather than brushing/
But once done, how do I then get the excess preservative 'back in the
bottle'? Any ideas?
Well, just stick a funnel in the bottle, and ladle the stuff back using
a suitable cup or something I'd have thought.
When it gets too shallow to scoop up you can reposition the polythene
and bricks to form ever-smaller 'baths', until it's all gone.
With care if it's solvent based preservative.
I once managed to set fire to a fence panel after having done a brush
on treatment and then tapping in some nails . The hammer slipped and
presumably there was a spark, but then away it went. Fortunately,
the solvent burned off very rapidly and the wood didn't really catch
light - it was just slightly darkened. Actually this wasn't a
problem because I was wanting to make it look a bit "distressed".
Nonetheless, it was a bit of a surprise.
The problem is you'll need far more preservative to fill your "bath" than
that actually required to do the job if brushed/sprayed.
A variation might be to build such a containment and then just slosh the
presevative over with a big brush collecting up the spillage from the
containment for reuse. Turn the panel once to treat the other side.
As others have said, it may be best to create a 'channel' just to stand each
panel in and give a serious coat on each side, not forgeting all four edges.
My dad did this on some panels many moons ago using creosote substitute and
they lasted quite a few years without any further treatments.
I'd wait until we had 2 or 3 dry days and nights in a row before treating,
this way, more of the preservative soaks into the timber.
On 3 Feb, 17:07, "Dave Liquorice"
There is a world of difference in the efficacy of a brush treatment
verus an immersion treatment. (See the BWPDA Treatment Manual circa
mid 1980s and any amount of research papers). In short the more active
ingedient you can get in deep into the timber (away from the surface
which is liable to ponding, UV damage, wind and rain erosion etc) the
better the performance and the fact of the matter is that dipping for
a minimum of an hour (I usually do it overnight) is much more
effective than brush treatments.
If, as has been suggested, it can be done when both fluid and timber
is hot during the day and then cooled at night also in the bath the
contraction of the air in the timber drags in more fluid to a greater
depth. (In the old days when creosote was legal one could heat up the
drum with fence posts in it and then let it cool to get the same
effect but I would not advise this with a modern OS fungicide for the
reasons described in one of the other posts!)
On the issue of doing on a hard stand - commercial practice requires
all such activities to be carried out in premises with a bund. Were I
to be doing this my bund would be a second sheet of polythene under
the first in all my operations such that if the first leaked it would
not go over all my hard standing garden path/garage/ driveway etc