Hi all I will be needing to apply preservative to some garden fence panels in the near future.
I like the idea which I've seen, here on uk.d-i-y I think, of making a shallow 'bath' for such panels, by putting down bricks to make a border, then putting a polythene sheet down, and pouring preservative into the area. This way I can 'dunk' the panels rather than brushing/ spraying/whatever.
But once done, how do I then get the excess preservative 'back in the bottle'? Any ideas?
Thanks J^n
Well, just stick a funnel in the bottle, and ladle the stuff back using a suitable cup or something I'd have thought.
When it gets too shallow to scoop up you can reposition the polythene and bricks to form ever-smaller 'baths', until it's all gone.
David
================================== Buy one of these:
Cic.
Yeah, that was pretty much my idea. Just wondered if anyone had a better one...
Ta J
With care if it's solvent based preservative.
I once managed to set fire to a fence panel after having done a brush on treatment and then tapping in some nails . The hammer slipped and presumably there was a spark, but then away it went. Fortunately, the solvent burned off very rapidly and the wood didn't really catch light - it was just slightly darkened. Actually this wasn't a problem because I was wanting to make it look a bit "distressed".
Nonetheless, it was a bit of a surprise.
The problem is you'll need far more preservative to fill your "bath" than that actually required to do the job if brushed/sprayed.
A variation might be to build such a containment and then just slosh the presevative over with a big brush collecting up the spillage from the containment for reuse. Turn the panel once to treat the other side.
Hi Pull all the ends of the sheet up, and cut a small hole in the bottom, then hold it above a funnel? Al
Hi Dave
yes, I had wondered about that ...
Yep, that sounds like the way to go. I want to give a 'generous coating' without getting excess preservative everywhere...
Thanks J^n
Remember to do it on hardstanding...
As others have said, it may be best to create a 'channel' just to stand each panel in and give a serious coat on each side, not forgeting all four edges.
My dad did this on some panels many moons ago using creosote substitute and they lasted quite a few years without any further treatments.
I'd wait until we had 2 or 3 dry days and nights in a row before treating, this way, more of the preservative soaks into the timber.
Spot on I reckon.
I build a feather-edged boarded arris rail fence 20 years ago. Never got round to applying anything to it, and it's still fine.
Dear All There is a world of difference in the efficacy of a brush treatment verus an immersion treatment. (See the BWPDA Treatment Manual circa mid 1980s and any amount of research papers). In short the more active ingedient you can get in deep into the timber (away from the surface which is liable to ponding, UV damage, wind and rain erosion etc) the better the performance and the fact of the matter is that dipping for a minimum of an hour (I usually do it overnight) is much more effective than brush treatments. If, as has been suggested, it can be done when both fluid and timber is hot during the day and then cooled at night also in the bath the contraction of the air in the timber drags in more fluid to a greater depth. (In the old days when creosote was legal one could heat up the drum with fence posts in it and then let it cool to get the same effect but I would not advise this with a modern OS fungicide for the reasons described in one of the other posts!)
On the issue of doing on a hard stand - commercial practice requires all such activities to be carried out in premises with a bund. Were I to be doing this my bund would be a second sheet of polythene under the first in all my operations such that if the first leaked it would not go over all my hard standing garden path/garage/ driveway etc
Chris
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