Drilling upwards.

Something involving a broom handle and a cartridge gun? Really flash, fit a compression spring in there as well, old valve spring might be a bit to hard. I think the really tricky bit is going to be getting a secure and safe coupling to the back of the drill, with the pressure applied in line with the drill "axle".

I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling while it's being screwed. or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger?

Just a middle of the night idea :¬)

Pete

Bottle jack? or even the cars scissor jack,

I'm not convinced you've seen the 'porcelain tile' bit of Dave's post. Breaking the glaze doesn't happen, going through the biscuit easily doesn't happen ...

And IIRC Dave has a Victorian place so it's not likely to be a concrete lintel.

But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive.

Me, I'd try a new diamond bit (they wear too damn quickly for my liking), light pressure only, and rigging up some sort of continuous lubrication, even if that's only a bit of a trcikle out of the end of the shower hose.

John

Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and practically,so....

Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge. turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards.

:-) I think that deserves some merit don't you?

message

How big are your windows?

I use a normal centre punch. These are thick hard porcelain tiles which may be used as floor ones as well, and take a lot of breaking - as I discovered when removing one with a flaw in it.

Heh heh - you've not come across them, then?

I'm only concerned about the tiles.

But what would hold the cartridge gun?

I have got just such a beast and the drill which fits it complete with speed control. Made redundant when I bought a pillar drill. I'll investigate it.

Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole.

Actually this one has as it's a new window - but it's dry lined with plasterboard.

I take it easy given the cost of the drills.

I've found the B&D ones that Screwfix sell that include a lubrication kit work very well - but that won't work on a ceiling. So was intending just regularly dipping it in water. I don't want to soak things.

It's interesting you say light pressure. I've found short bursts of very high pressure at low speed works best. Are you suggesting a higher speed at low pressure? If that works better it would alleviate my problem somewhat.

A further investigation since you have one but this depends whether you have one of those Aldi plasterboard props and whether its the same circumfrence as the B&D stand pole?

Take the mechanicle drill mount off the stand and discard the stand and pole.

Get the Aldi prop and mount the drill anchoring mechanics upside down on the prop,use the prop to align the drill to the hole and use the lever on the drill mount. ;-)

If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to hold the drill comfortably.

I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14 holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't last 5 minutes.

Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type car jack to apply the upwards pressure?

Good luck.

Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you?

Being on your back whilst drilling upwards is potentially a dangerous position to be in and the chance you moving fast in that position are minimal.

agreed, if anything happens and drill slips from your grasp ...... ouch!

Heh heh - not DIY, then? But I have booked a pal for the weekend if I can't manage it.

BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same.

I get really tired easily painting or trying to plaster ceilings Dennis....will you pop round and paint them for me?

For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a

That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat backs so likely to slip off the jack.

I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler attachment (from Screwfix)