Even a hammer drill can smash tiles, though. Best to switch it off.
Even a hammer drill can smash tiles, though. Best to switch it off.
I agree but when it goes beyond the tile and into the wall, the sds seems to chip the tile more than a hammer drill.
So i would normally go for a hammer drill for tiled walls and sds for normal. just remember to off the hammer until the file is through.
Why? SDS is only how the bit is held in, it says nothing about the power of the drill, its hammer action, or the quality of the bit being used, all of which seem rather more relevant than three letter painted on the side of the drill casing...
I have found the BIT quality to be the key thing, followed by a good hammer action. You need to smash through embedded flints. This takes more than a run of the mill masonry bit.
The message from John Rumm contains these words:
That's not a cheapie - that's 50 quid!
That sounds like the one. Havn't used it in anything harder than aerated block in a while, since I got the SDS, otherwise I probably would have done (or as likely replaced it).
I suppose technically you could build a non SDS with an SDS-style hammer action, but I've never seen one.
It's also a Silverline thing. There's a belt sander there, too, at £34
1 1/2 times more expensive than the one I looked at in Aldi yesterday, which also had the benefit of being variable-speed.The message from The Natural Philosopher contains these words:
I've found that pneumatic SDS drills (are there any other sort?) will sail through concrete no matter how cheap the bits. "Impact" drills struggle no matter what bits you put in 'em.
Aright, try part number 88952 (about half way down the above page)
If you say so. I take it you've never used either on something hard?
The message from John Rumm contains these words:
Trouble with the lighter drills is they offer a much lower impact energy. The 5kg model that everyone sells gets the job done very nicely.
Also, small boys enjoy using it to break up concrete that's set in a lump in the barrow.
Cheaper lighter ones all suffer from this. More expensive lighter ones do OK.
Depends on the job... for breaking up a patio you may be right. But for neatly chasing a wall for a cable run and then chopping out a socket back box hole, the control and finesse you get with the decent drills makes the job easy rather than almost impossible. (being able to lock off the chisel at an angle of rotation you choose, and then use very light and controllable hammer action to get a cut started is a massive step forward from the all or nothing jump all over the place action you get from some of the cruder beasties)
Same applies to big boys I am sure ;-)
Have you ever seen a SDS drill that does not also have the enhanced pnumatic hammer action that the world has come to associate with "SDS"?
With a conventional hammer drill, you are right - a good bit can make the difference between a hole in a wall and a small dent plus lots of swearing. With SDS drills however I have found you are going to get a hole almost regardless of what you stick in the end!
a rotary hammer works differently from a hammer drill. thats why the chuck is different to necessitate the drilling.
if you were an expensive sds bit, cut the shank and place the bit into a hammer drill, its performance would be no where near that of a rotary hammer using a cheap $2 bit
its in the design of the drill, sds is just the tip of an iceberg.
Its in the hammer action, not in the fact it says 'SDS' on it.
The message from The Natural Philosopher contains these words:
However, SDS has become a convenient shorthand for "pneumatic impact"
What does it mean by chuck capacity SDS+? Is it an ordinary drill with an SDS chuck, or a genuine cheapo SDS drill?
Pneumatic 'conventional' hammer drills *were* once available at a vast price, but are any now? Can't see the point since SDS works so well.
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