Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

[JoeJoe]

I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and transformers (one per light):

and

According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with MR16 bulbs.

I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED bulbs instead.

Any reason why this shouldn't be done?

PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.

[JoeJoe]

Mine are the ones from the User manual - I couldn't fine an exact match for them as no longer available, but they look very similar to the eBay one.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The connector on an MR16 is different from a GU10. Assuming you can buy the correct mains tails with the GU 10 connector, don't see why not.

[Roger Hayter]

I've done it with a similar but more elaborate MR16 12V halogen downlight. There was a bit of bodging to replace the MR16 socket, which was riveted to the frame, with a GU!0 socket (c/w heat resistant flying leads - from Ebay) but as long as the chocolate block connector is protected and fixed, with a cable clamp and a cover to avoid shock in accordance with wiring regulations I see no problem with it.

[PeterC]

For a very different use, I came across these (seem pretty well made, considering the price):

There is a MR16-to-GU10 adapter but, given the MR16 socket, I don't like that much weight with no restraint. T'other way round would be OK, as the GU10 is quite a good socket.

[JoeJoe]

Sorry, should have mentioned that I was going to replace the connectors of course.

[tabbypurr]

Connect the earth wire to the metal fitting, if it is metal. Ensure the wire joint can't be touched and is in a flame resistant container. Then you have class 1 mains fittings.

NT

[Brian Gaff]

I of course cannot see the pictures here, but I do recall a bodger I used to know who decided a spotlight 12 v powered by a transformer up in the ceiling and fed to a light on a gooseneck. was rubbish so he changed the socket in the lamp by drilling out the rivets, then connected the two wires in the ceiling to the mains and yes, it worked. However about a month later there was a bang and the internal wiring shorted out. I somehow have never been convinced that 12v wiring is up to mains insulation standards. On the face of it the current should be less of course, but the insulation and bulb heat etc need to be taken into account when doing these things. I'd also have wondered about the lamp body being earthed or not. I never found out. Brian

[Roger Hayter]

Forgot the earth connection to the metal fitting. Well I didn't forget to *do* it, but I forgot to mention it. Especially a good idea if you have to change the bulb up a ladder, as even a little leakage can be distracting.