Downlighters - how many in a kitchen?

[ARW]

That attractive and practical lighting will used in most cases be used to read the takeaway menu whilst sat in the kitchen before phoning the local for a delivery.

[Steve Walker]

We have three T5 tubes under a row of cupboards, two 600mm and one 500mm (the cupbaords that is!) These are used a lot - whenever we are preparing food or often instead of the main lights. So far, they seem to be averaging over 4 years before failing.

When I have used my spares (I have one of each size, as they came in packs of two last time), I'll look at led replacements. I'll probably go for new fittings rather than retrofit tubes though, as they'd be neater.

That's a definite possibility, or maybe a 1500mm single fitting.

SteveW

[Steve Walker]

I swapped 50W halogen GU10s for 7 or 8W LEDs in out second toilet and they are actually far brighter!

In the main bathroom, we have MR16 LEDs and one 35W halogen (the PSU is unstable without the halogen and I've not got round to replacing it yet). There is little difference between them, unless you know that one is halogen and look for it. Even then it is only if you look directly at it.

SteveW

[ss]

My kitchen is 24 ft long and I have 4 x LED 6 inch panels (12w each) spaced evenly along the length, wife loves it kids think it is too bright. They fit flush with ceiling.

[Steve Walker]

For the bathroom (fairly small) we have 8 MR16 LEDs. Two directly over where your book would be, two over the washbasin and mirror, one as part of an extractor intake over the shower and the other three filling in the gaps.

It works well.

Basic transformers are typically 95% efficient or better. Switch-mode power supplies even better.

Are they lights GU5.3 MR16? If they are, then LED replacements would seem to be in order. If not, it's probably worth changing the lights entirely, just to get LEDs.

The only filament bulbs we have left are the outside light by the front door (the movement sensor won't switch LEDs), a lava lamp and one halogen in the bathroom (the PSU oscillates on and off twice per second without it). The outside lamp will be changed soon, as I add another around the corner, so we can see the bins when we're trying to put things in the dark and I'll get around to changing the bathroom lighting PSU at some point.

SteveW

[alan_m]

I have one in my bathroom and as you say excellent lighting.

I have a smaller round panel light in my (small kitchen) that provides much better lighting than the fluorescent tube it replaced.

If the OP is going to fit under cabinet led strip lighting then one or two 20W led panel type fittings, surface mounted or recessed, would supply enough bright lighting for the rest of the room.

LED under cabinet lightds

[The Natural Philosopher]

All downlighters cause shadows

So does the sun.

[NY]

In the bathroom at our last house, I replaced ceiling tungsten GU10s with LED ones - maybe MiniSun - and the beam angle was not as wide... or at least, it had sharper cutoff at the edge, so the were more noticeable dark areas between the lights. Likewise in the kitchen, in a ceiling mounted fitting with five spotlights that could be pointed in different directions: it took a bit of time to adjust the angles of the lights to give sufficient light on the worktops after changing tungsten for MiniSun,

But in out new house, with a grid of LED GU10s every 1 m to 1.3 m in the kitchen and bedroooms, the lighting seems very even.

[The Other Mike]

No, the beam angle is the total, so if it says 38 degrees it's 38 degrees.

There is a whole suite of articles on the Philips lighting website covering the intricacies of lighting design, the lamp tech specs etc. They could be still there but I can't seem to find them right now.

Also in the case of a kitchen the working plane is 900mm or so above the floor and that makes a difference to the effective spread area and hot and cold spots compared to simply illuminating a floor used for a passageway. The shadows caused by occupancy in a kitchen can be significant, similarly those around a bathroom basin or a dressing room mirror.

Also what various people, even very experienced lighting professionals and published texts consider suitable lighting levels does not suit everyone. For instance If we'd listened to 'a pro' a windowless shower room would be lit at about 150-200 lux. As installed and recently measured it's circa 1000 lux and that is only just acceptable to SWMBO. It doesn't seem bright, clearly there is some on the fly adaption by the eye but 150 lux would be dire. But with careful positioning of the light sources there are no nasty shadows.

[nothanks]

;-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I used standard tubes - due to the much wider range of colour temperature available. Mounted via terry clips, don't require a large plinth to conceal them. They have Osram dimming ballasts and the two tubes - one 6 ft one 5 ft - have lasted for many many years. I'd be surprised if LEDs could better them. Of course it cost a lot more than the cheapest option, but I've been very happy with them which is worth more to me than saving money.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Yes - a church hall nearby has just had those fitted. Same size as the ceiling panels and almost invisible when off. And extremely even light when on. So excellent working light. But not something I'd want at home, except in a workshop.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I can. ;-)

[Steve Walker]

Our local church was recently refurbished. It was only then that the existing lights were revealed to be a set of lights mounted onto gold-painted, paper covered, bicycle wheel rims!

SteveW

[alan_m]

A kitchen is somewhere where you need a good "working" light rather than mood lighting.

[Robert]

I've gone for 300/400 lumens per square meter in my basement utility room and workshop. Really as you get older you cant get enough light for working by. Used Luceco F type downlighters in the 6 and 8 watt variety. Easy to fit and good reviews on Screwfix. When planning where to fit them , try to avoid the user casting shadows when working at the worktop by positioning some in front of the user over the worktop. Buy a couple of spare ones for when one inevitably goes in a few years time and matching ones arent available any longer !

[alan_m]

In my mid size bathroom I have a single 300mm x 300mm panel and that also works well. Specified as 20W, 1800lm in bathroom that is tiled floor to ceiling in near white (marble effect) tiles.

[invalid]

probably one of those that have a £30k fashion kitchen, but can't cook.

[Andy Burns]

The non-replaceable type are wider beam than most GU10 lamps (60 vs 38 degrees, though some 110 degree lamps are available) they seem popular with electricians on youtube, but maybe that's down to speed of fitting, also JCC V50 seem popular, that might be due to not needing to carry both cool and warm types on the van (they're switchable).

[alan_m]

Poor lighting in a kitchen and bathroom can hide a lack of cleaning/hygiene.