Hi,
I have something like this:
Does whatever is inside wear out with age and have this failure mode? It seems a bit dangerous that the door can fail and lock you in! Or is it just that you get what you pay for?
TIA
Hi,
I have something like this:
Does whatever is inside wear out with age and have this failure mode? It seems a bit dangerous that the door can fail and lock you in! Or is it just that you get what you pay for?
TIA
The alloy 'bit' where the square shaft goes through often cracks so that when turned it doesn't fully retract the latch. Whatever the reason fit a new one at less than a £.
Peter
I've just checked a random selection of my internal doors, and quite a few of them don't retract fully. I don't know whether or not they did when first fitted - but it isn't usually a problem because there's enough clearance between door and frame for the latch to stick out a bit without binding in the plate.
As others have said, the most likely cause of your problem is that the latches have worn, but it *could* be that the doors have swollen with the damp sufficiently to reduce the clearance whereby the latch binds even though the door itself doesn't bind in the frame.
Only if it's an external door, at this time of year the humidity inside will be starting to fall as the heating starts to kick in. I wouldn't expect to find that sort of latch on an external door...
I did wonder whether they may have been fitted so that they didn't fully retract but why would they start binding now, when they haven't before? Like another poster said, they're pennies to buy, so I'll buy a couple of new ones and compare old with new.
Another poster said they were nasty fittings. Is there anything better to use?
Thanks.
Yes. Pay more for a good one. This is pretty good:
I fitted some last week for a customer, cost me £5+vat. Well worth it, similar, if not the same as the ones at Screwfix. Real good quality, came with satin chrome or brass faceplates. Also, the screws enclosed were usable, unlike most of the supplied screws with door fittings. Alan.
You mean the ones with a PH head somewhere in between 1 & 2 but not quite either, or the ones that snap off as you tighten them, despite the pilot hole?
Yes, they are the ones, if they dont snap, they rip the slot out, so you need pliers to get them out. It is usual for me to throw away any supplied screws. I tried these as I dont keep many chromed screws, so was quite pleased when I found they were pretty good. Alan.
Me too :-)
I don't need a lock as these are just internal doors. Isn't the latch and the lock independent though? Do you just use yours as latches and ignore the locks? Why is the latch mechanism better in these? TIA
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