Title says it all really. Just been taking to my mum, she just had a
quote in from a dry rot treatment specialist to spray what amounts to
approx 25 square meters of brick and woodwork at a cost of a tad over
(Note that this is just the spraying - all the rotten timber, plaster
etc has been removed, and new timber installed already)
When she told me at first I thought she said 180 + VAT, to which I
thought fair enough - especially as it comes with a guarantee. When I
worked out there was an extra zero on the end I nearly fell off my chair!
£30 at a rough guess -for a gallon of Cuprinol, paint roller and brush,
gloves, mask and some old clothes to bin afterwards. Of course you get a
free paint roller and paint brush, gloves and a mask with it. I cant
allow for the price of the old clothes. I hope you understand.
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG
Cuprinol make a range of dry rot treatment chemicals. There is a
dry rot killer for timber, another for masonry and a 5 star timber
treatment. Details on their web site. On line prices vary between
£20 and about £30 for 5 litres./
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Yup - I found those shortly after posting the first message.... Looks
like with 3 coats etc as recommended, plus some form of pump up sprayer
for getting into the nooks and crannies, I could do the whole lot for
under 150 quid!
tbh, if the damp and ventilation problems have been sorted out I don't
really see the necessity. If not, then then £2k would be an awful lot
better spent on sorting the base problem out!
For belt and braces ~£100 ought to get you the chemicals and probably
purchase a cheap sprayer especially from the purpose!
email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
Found the link I had been looking for over the last couple of weeks - I came
across this stuff when researching dry rot after it occurred in my wife's
flat following a leak from the soil stack in the flat upstairs....
email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
If you have removed all infected timber and - MORE IMPORTANLY -
removed the source of the damp which allowed the dry rot to grow in
the first place, you have no need to use any chemicals. Dry Rot will
not suddenly materialise on brickwork because there are no nutrients
for it to feed on. It needs to convert the cellular structure of the
timber back into basic sugars etc. and there aren't any such
ingredients in bricks. If you have damp timber however(probably in the
region of 25%+ moisture content), it will grow on that. If you've
removed this though, and from your post you have, you should be safe.
If you are considering plastering the brickwork, do the first coat in
a 3:1 sand and cement base, this will ensure your protection.
Perhaps the quote was to 'irrigate' the wall rather than just spray
it. If so, avoid it like the plague. It has the potential to do as
much damage as you're trying to cure!!
You'll also find that the guarantee on the treatment only lasts as
long as it takes for the area to 'dry out'. Any recurrence after that
isn't covered. But of course, Dry Rot doesn't grow on dry timber
anyway. Bit of a conundrum that don't you think ;))
In short, the best treatment for Dry Rot is to keep the area dry. If
you do, you will never get dry rot, or any other kind of rot for that
I would first question the reason for doing it. Youve removed the old
wood, and wish to protect the replacement wood presumably. Whether
that rots really depends on the dampness it sees rather than anything
else. The cure for dry rot is dryness. Note dry rot is a misleading
name, dry rot requires damp to occur, like any other mould.
If your replacement timber gets as wet, it will rot regardless, it
might just take a year or two longer.
Dry rot does not affect brickwork: it can grow on it but has no effect
There have also been complaints of health problems following such
I'd just sort out the problem instead, the cause of the wood getting
N. Thornton wrote:
A bit of background: the house is currently subject to an insurance
claim (seven years and running!) to fix damage caused by settlement /
tree roots etc. One of the pre-conditions of this work being done
however was the eradication of dry rot that was discovered in the front
of the property (and the adjoining semi). Other conditions also included
dealing with the trees and installing root barriers in various places -
which was the local councils responsibility. This has also been done.
The source of the water was a leaking downpipe which has been replaced.
The woodwork replacement required in both properties has been quite
extensive since the bresemer beam that runs along a significant part of
the front of the property (and actually supports a corner of the
building as a cantilever) needed replacing. Also the lintel over the bay
window on the first floor, plus some floor and ceiling joist replacement
on both floors has also been done. Needless to say the insurers have
refused to pay for any of this work.
Mainly to satisfy the insurers such that they will pay out on the much
bigger settlement claim...
Yes I appreciate that... I did a fair amount of research into it a few
Personally I would not be that inclined to do much spraying (if any).
All the new timber that has gone in is tannalised - any cut ends etc
were treated in cuprinol wood preserver as well. The plaster etc has
been hacked off, and there is only a tiny amount of myceilium type
filaments left embedded in the masonry of the party wall - which ought
not to have a supply of moisture now.
The only very slight concern is that since the place is built with 12"
solid brick walls, there will always remain the possibility of the
moisture content in the wall being higher that one would like. This is
not helped by one architectural feature where the wall between the
downstairs windowsill and the ground is raked at an angle such that the
base protrudes a little beyond the windowsill:-
===| <----- sill
| <----- Wall
Hence it is more at risk of penetrating damp.
I presume the intention is to remove any ready source of spores should
the wall become damp again for short periods in the future.
I am concerned about this myself.... hence why I would rather do the
work myself so as to use the minimum necessary. Having said that, once
the problem is sorted the plan was to sell the house and move anyway.
Just about any building work causes intense lung irritation - it all
makes DUST and that needs to be coughed up.
The cxhemicals used in rot treatment stink and are probably fairly nasty
- use a mask, and rubber gloves and goggles, spray it quickly, open the
windows and go down the pub.
The ONLY benefit to having someone else do it is they may offer a paper
guarantee which may help the sale of the house. My house came with such,
and it wasn't worth the paper it was written on, since most of the rot
was in places no sprayer could have reached, and all the so called damp
proofing only worked where it had actually been applied, which due to
the design of the house, was not everywhere.
As far as penetrating damp goes, it would have been advisable to insert
new timbers over a DPM or somesuch.
Tanalised timber still needs sawn ends teated. BTW.
Just spray it and teh brickwork thoroughly. Soppng wet is how teh fungus
likes it. Once some heatng is in teh place and teh main source op leak
eliminated., it will be sound for 60 years probly.
Yup a decent organic solvent rated respirator would be my first choice
along with one of those disposable all body suits....
That and the fact it is them being exposed to any potential nasties...
Then again it is probably the long term exposure from living is a
treated building that is more of an issue than the "one off" exposure to
spay it in the first place.
This is the only potential sticking point - if the insurers insist on a
guarantee before allowing the rest of the work. Still I suppose it must
be possible to purchase an insured underwriting for this sort of work
since that is what the more reputable companies will do rather than
carry the risk themselves I presume.
The new timbers at most risk from this (I expect) are the ground floor
joists near the front wall. They are now hung from galvanised joist
hangers - so no longer directly in contact with it, so that ought to be
better. That ISTM is one area where there would be value in sterilising
the masonry in those parts, so that there is less chance of any spores
in it getting re-activated if moisture gets in.
I must admit to being very impressed with the carpenter who is doing the
wood restoration - so far all the work has been first rate and very
reasonably priced. He seems to have paid very good attention to detail
treating cut ends - even remembering things like treating the notches in
the joists where the central heating pipes run etc.
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